Saturday 15 August 2020

Devon Cruising on the Dart

Dartmouth ©Solange Hando

      Dartmouth is the start of the upriver cruise to Totnes, a lovely place with a gleaming marina, half-timbered buildings and steep flower-draped lanes with spectacular views from the hill top.

    If you are staying in the 'English Riviera', consider the 'round robin' tour which takes you on a steam train from Paignton with spectacular views along the Devon coast, down to Kingston on the left bank of the Dart then across to Dartmouth on a three minute ferry ride.


Dart Cruise, Ready to Go ©Solange Hando

Departure times will depend on the tide but if you come on the round robin, this will be sorted out, giving you plenty of time to look around Dartmouth and enjoy a spot of lunch before boarding.

If you do this on your own, you will have a choice of boats, including a paddle steamer on specific dates. But don't leave it to chance, book early, especially in the summer season.


Dart Estuary ©Solange Hando

    If the tide is right, the cruise will briefly take you downstream, past the medieval castles which once guarded the river mouth on either side.

    Then turn around and enjoy superb views of Dartmouth from the water, town clinging to the hills, yachts, the impressive Royal Britannia Naval College and you might just spot the steam train puffing away through the trees.


On the River Dart ©Solange Hando

    Now all is quiet, first along forested banks, all different trees and maybe a mighty oak here and there, once so common they gave the river its Celtic name.

    It's a lovely time to relax, just the odd boat now and then, a lonely cottage on the river bank and a hamlet or two, loved by visitors but still genuine and traditional.


Canadian Geese on the River Dart ©Solange Hando

    This is your chance to see the wild life, flocks of Canadian geese in season, an osprey, a rare dipper, a colourful kingfisher and lots of egrets and black-headed gulls.The river is also rich in fish, especially salmon and trout.

    Then before you leave the wooded area, look out for the elegant Georgian house peeping through he trees om the hill top. This was the holiday home of Agatha Christie and the place which inspired some of her murder stories. 


Devon Hills along the Dart ©Solange Hando

    After a while, the views open up as rolling hills rise above the river, dotted with ancient stones and cattle grazing on lush grass. 

    You may see a few canoeists and not far from Totnes, look out for the vineyards of Sharpam Estate which offer award-winning wines and also make their own cheese.


Totnes ©Solange Hando

Ninety minutes or so after leaving Datmouth, you reach the end of the cruise in Totnes as you approach the old bridge, the last one before the river heads downstream through deep water and steep valleys.

Totnes is an attractive place to look around with its bohemian lanes full of artists, historic church,  Devon cream teas and panoramic views from the hill top castle.


Totnes on the River Dart ©Solange Hando


    


    

 

Saturday 1 August 2020

Ethiopia Top Attraction Lalibela

Lalibela ©Solange Hando

Lalibela? But where is the town?.. in the middle of nowhere, a fairly long drive from the namesake airport, up steep winding hills through rugged scenery with a few clusters of trees hiding the all important water. 
But eventually you reach a bustling settlement, houses climbing up the slopes with spectacular views all round.


St George's Carved out of the Rock ©Solange Hando

Top attraction and listed by UNESCO are the rock-hewn churches, 13 of them dating back to medieval times. The first one was designed by King Lalibela,  carved from the rock underground to protect it from natural disasters and possible invasions.


Traditional Interior, Orthodox Church Lalibela ©Solange Hando

Lalibela was designed as a new Jerusalem, a haven for pilgrims who still come from far and wide to do their devotions. Beautifully decorated with paintings and drapes, each church is different, accessed via steep steps, underground passages and tunnels.
Priests are around all day and as elsewhere in this highly religious country, you can expect the Orthodox call to prayer at first light every day.


View from my Hotel in Lalibela ©Solange Hando

But there's more to Lalibela than churches. Once you're up there, expect spectacular views all round and always changing, from the deserted side just beyond town to tiny road and lane meandering up from the airport towards panoramic hotels draped in greenery and tropical flowers.


Coffee Time? ©Solange Hando

For neighbours, family and friends, traders or visitors, coffee is an essential part of life, prepared according to rituals in a special ceremony which can take 30 minutes or more.
This is the delicious coffee arabica, first grown in Ethiopia, and they say any problem can be solved over a cup of coffee.


Traditional Huts ©Solange Hando

Wander around and you find a few traditional huts, restored for show, an amazing hilltop restaurant managed by a Scottish lady and a week-end market downtown where you can bargain for anything, including goats.


Sunset from Panoramic Hotel ©Solange Hando