Uzbekistan Samarkand on the Silk Road

Samarkand on the Silk Road ©Solange Hando

Samarkand dazzles you every step of the way with magnificent buildings restored with great dedication and fond memories of medieval merchants.

Once laden with exotic goods, they travelled from far and wide across Central Asia, marvelling, just as we do today, at the legendary wonders of this amazing city.

The Bibi Khanym Mosque ©Solange Hando

Among the top attractions is this 15th century mosque, commissioned by Bibi Khanym as a gift for Timur, her husband and victorious warrior, now a national hero. The mosque was rebuilt after an earthquake but still feels haunted by one of the saddest stories in the land.

Having fallen in love with Bibi, the architect kissed the lady on the cheek but when Timur returned from his campaign in India, he noticed the mark and executed his rival. Some say the lady suffered the same fate but no one is really sure. 

Shah-i Zinda Necropolis ©Solange Hando

Up on a hill on the edge of town, this necropolis includes a mausoleum honouring the 'Living King', cousin of the Prophet Mohammed and patron saint of Samarkand.

It is 35 steps to the top, a challenge on a hot day, but well worth the effort as you join worshippers making their way through the long alleyway of shrines, covered in blue and turquoise tiles.

Ulug Beg ©Solange Hando

Born in 1394, Timur's grandson was passionate about culture and science, especially astronomy for which he built the world's largest observatory at that time, on a hill but underground to protect it from earthquakes. He studied the sun and the moon and accurately positioned over 1000 stars.

Unfortunately, though widely remembered as an astronomer, Ulug Beg was not a strong ruler and he was eventually overthrown and executed by his son.

The Registan ©Solange Hando

Designed between the 15th and 17th century, Samarkand's central square claims three fabulous madrassas, fronted by a raised viewing platform for snap-happy tourists and wedding photos. The oldest building is the Ulug Beg Madrassa, on the left..

Enjoy the glowing towers and archways, ribbed minarets, restored mosaics, small souvenir shops and workshops and in the Tiger Madrassa on the right, free demonstrations of traditional music. Don't miss the stunning sound and light shows in season.

Registan

The golden ceiling in the central Tilla Kari Madrassa ©Solange Hando 

Kerala in South India

Kochi Fishing Nets ©Solange Hando

Formerly known as Cochin, this is the 'Queen of the Arabian Sea', a fascinating city set on a peninsula and islands around a vast natural harbour.

The old district has a rich history and there's a lovely promenade along the waterfront lined with stalls and seafood restaurants, and a beach, best at the far end. But most iconic are the Chinese fishing nets, each one pulled in and out of the water every 15 minutes or so.

Kerala Backwaters ©Solange Hando

Then just inland are the Kerala backwaters, the highlight of any trip to southern India. There, for a few hours or overnight, you can explore the waterways as you sail across canals, lagoons and lakes in your traditional bamboo-covered boat. 

Banks are beautifully lush and green and it's a great place to see the local life as you pass a village or two or a Hindu temple glowing in the sun. The main waterways and big Lake Vembanad may bustle with tourists and local craft but there are some amazingly quiet areas, tucked in the greenery away from it all. 

Classical Kerala ©Solange Hando

Traditional culture is alive and well, not just for visitors but for anyone in Kerala, it's is a matter of pride and identity. Above is a main character in a Khatakali performance where after the opening rituals, a centuries-old story is performed, expressing every emotion through eye and face movements.

Heavy make up and large colourful costumes add to the drama, punctuated with the relentless beating of a drum. 

Up in the Western Ghats ©Solange Hando

A short drive east leads you to the hills of the Western Ghats, an entirely different world but still part of Kerala.The Periyar Wildlife sanctuary has tree top look-outs where you might spot elephants or a lone tiger, if you are really lucky, and myriad birds if you sail on the lake where the Mulla and Periya rivers meet.

Up there, at over 700 metres the nearest village is Kumily set among spice plantations, including cardamom, the most important, which gives its name to the nearby hills.

Tea Plantations in Western Ghats ©Solange Hando

The ride from the coast to the hills is spectacular, winding past tall rubber trees, coffee bushes, spice gardens and extensive tea plantations, rolling emerald green across the slopes. Best overall views are from the pilgrimage site of Pattumala on St Francis Mount.

Sunset on the Arabian Sea, Kochi Beach ©Solange Hando