Sunday 22 September 2019

Bukhara on the Silk Road in Uzbekistan

Bukhara Poi Kalyon Complex ©Solange Hando

Madrassas, mosques, mausoleums, there's so much to see in Bukhara you'd need a full week to do it justice but if time is limited, Poi Kalyon is the place you should not miss, right at the heart of the Old Town.

Meaning 'at the foot of the Great',  it includes a mosque which can hold 10000 worshippers, a madrassa still providing a four year programme of religious studies and a minaret rising 45 metres above the town.


The Trading Domes ©Solange Hando

A popular access to the complex is through the restored medieval domes, originally housing the money changers, hat makers and jewellers.  Today you can shop for all sorts of local crafts, from puppets to pottery or textile, including Suzani embroidery, enhanced with decorative threads, and Ikat silk shimmering in rainbow colours.



Weaving Carpets in Bukhara ©Solange Hando

But especially prized are the lovely silk carpets, among them the 'magic' carpets, so called for they are double-sided so you get two for the price of one. Not cheap but quality guaranteed.

Designs range from Uzbek geometric patterns to Persian flowers and the more you walk on your silk carpet, the tighter the knots and the longer it will last.



Lyabi Hauz Complex ©Solange Hando

Shaded by mulberry trees, the square is set around an ancient reservoir, 42 metres long by 36 across, glistening with the reflections of  traditional buildings draped in blue tiles and wood.

It was once a focal point for merchants and entertainers but today this is a beautifully quiet place where you can relax by the water or sip a drink in the shade.


The Ark, Bukhara's Landmark ©Solange Hando

With its mud brick walls glowing in the sun, the fortress of the Ark is one of the city's top icons, first recorded in the 7th century and reconstructed many times.

What you see today mostly dates from the 16th century, partly restored after a major fire, Beyond the steep stone ramp and gate, you will find a couple of museums, calligraphy exhibits and spine-chilling stories from the past. 


Remembering the Silk Road in Bukhara ©Solange Hando