Capital of Lorraine in north-east France, Nancy loves the golden gates rising on all four corners of the main square. Designed in the 18th century by royal craftsmen, the wrought iron gates are clad with gold leaf and enhanced by fountains and statues.
Nancy owes much of its fame to Stanislas, the exiled Polish king who was given the Duchy of Lorraine by his son in law, the French king Louis XV. The city's benefactor nurtured the arts, creating a new district, including the square and its surroundings, spending its fortune to express his gratitude while introducing soup kitchens to feed the poor.
Place Stanislas is listed world heritage site by UNESCO, alongside Place Carrière, the old jousting grounds with its own golden gates, accessed via a Triumphal Arch dedicated to the French king. The quiet place de l'Alliance is also a UNESCO site, not so grand but with plenty of charm. All three sites are right in the town centre, easy walking distance from each other.
Nancy is a vibrant modern city but just beyond the main square the old town, has medieval lanes, stylish Renaissance buildings and cosy restaurants, ethnic and French. The Porte de la Craffe is all that is left from the medieval fortifications, still sporting the double cross of Lorraine.
The old town is also a great place to find traditional crafts, such as pottery, genuine antiques and local produce in an authentic 'boutique lorraine' or displayed on the outdoor market alongside mirabelle plums in season, cold meat or AOC wine from nearby Toul. The former 'Dukes Palace' is now a museum full of exhibits.
If Art Nouveau is your thing, Nancy is a must. It all started around 1901 when local artists, Gallé, Majorelle and Daum broke away from tradition, using local material to create the flowing lines and colours of the natural world. Stained glass, floral patterns, wrought iron gates, balconies and turrets, you find them all over town and you can learn more about it in the Nancy School Museum.
Like to escape from the city? There's a lovely park next to the main square or head down to the canal (cruise in season) or a little further you will reach the river Meurthe where you can walk along the promenade and follow the cycling trails. Relax under the weeping willows and watch ducks and swans.
