Tangier across the Strait of Gibraltar ©Solange Hando
Framed by the hills, at the meeting point of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, Tangier has always been on the important trade route but with the cargo port now moved 40 km out of town, it looks much more like a 'resort', complete with a brand new marina and fishing harbour.
Cruise ships can dock within walking distance of the old and new towns though if you really want to take it easy, there is a shuttle bus to take you there.
Harbour Mosque in Tangier ©Solange Hando
First sight is likely to be the new Harbour Mosque overlooking the sea, only open to worshippers but so elegant and lofty it is an emblem you cannot forget.
Mosques (and churches) are found across town, including the Grand Mosque in the old district, built in the 19th century on the site of a Portuguese cathedral, and later enlarged for Friday Prayers.
Medina in Tangier ©Solange Hando
Not to be missed is the medina clambering up the hill with tiny squares and meandering lanes, sky blue walls festooned in trellises and potted plants.
Walk up to the Kasbah, enjoy the views, explore the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, in a former sultan's palace, browse the local craft and sip mint tea on the Petit Socco square, once the place to avoid but now beautifully refreshed.
Bay of Tangier ©Solange Hando
Then of course there's the beach, vast sweeping sands stretching as far as you can see and camels waiting to take you on a ride if you dare. But if you prefer quiet coves and hidden bays, you will find a few out of town.
But take time to stroll down the new jetty between marina and beach, lunch in a spotless restaurant and marvel at the view right across the bay.
New Town, Tangier ©Solange Hando
Now along the seafront the New Town beckons in a range of styles, from 21st century tower blocks to colonial architecture with wrought iron balconies or gleaming white walls with pastel-coloured frames around windows and doors. It feels almost European and unique in Morocco.
Grand Socco in Tangier ©Solange Hando
This is the city's main square, also known as 'April 9th', remembering the momentous speech held by sultan Mohammed V in 1947, advocating independence for his people. It took almost 10 years to achieve but today the palm-lined square is a lovely place for locals to relax and meet their friends.
Nearby is the house where Matisse spent so much of his time, enchanted like so many artists and writers, by the luminous light and culture.
