Tobago, Winter Sun in the Caribbean

Tobago, Calm Waters on Caribbean Coast ©Solange Hando

Are you looking for a quiet holiday in the sun? Then you'll find Tobago's Caribbean Coast lined with gems, Castara, Parlatuvier, Englishman's Bay and more, perfect places to soak in the winter sun and relax for a while away from it all.

But if these resorts are too secluded for you, you can always head for the sweeping sands of Turtle Beach along the coast where pelicans skim the waves and fishermen haul in their catch in the morning. In season, turtles nest on the beach.

Traditional Bungalow on the Beach ©Solange Hando

 Tobago is definitely the quieter side of paradise, draped in palm and sea grape trees at the southern end of the Caribbean archipelago. Even Scarborough, the capital, looks like a village, a mere sprinkling of  pastel-coloured houses clinging to the slopes, while down by the harbour, the odd cruise ship soon returns to the ocean..

Little Tobago on the Atlantic Coast ©Solange Hando

But unlike the Caribbean coast on the north side of the island, the Atlantic shores to the south are rugged and wild and often battered by foaming breakers.

This more dramatic scenery has a charm all of its own and from the lovely resort of Speyside, framed by lush hills and near-deserted beaches, you can take a boat to Little Tobago island, past coral gardens and Ian Fleming's villa, You may get a little wet when you land but it's worth the effort for a pristine nature reserve greets you with gorgeous views and myriad exotic birds.

The Argyle Waterfall ©Solange Hando

Yet there's more to Tobago than the coast. Claiming the world's oldest rainforest, the Central Mountain Range stretches right across the island, crossed by luxuriant trails where humming birds and parrots splash colour in trees.

There are streams and waterfalls and refreshing pools, just right for a dip. The Argyle is sign-posted from the road so you can't get lost but if you plan to go deep into the jungle, a guide is essential.

 Beach at Pigeon Point ©Solange Hando

Tobago is rarely crowded but if you are looking for a few beach amenities, Pigeon Point is the place to go, fairly close to the airport, though even in season, you can find superb stretches of white sands with no one in sight  and swim alone in warm translucent water.

Just off shore from Pigeon Point is the Buccoo Reef where one can snorkel from a boat and gaze at fire coral, blue parrot fish and other underwater wonders.

Bhutan, Progress and Tradition

The National Assembly Building in Thimphu ©Solange Hando

Progress came with a bang in 2006 when the 4th King announced his forthcoming abdication in favour of his son  and the institution of a democratic government. Bhutan had come of age and the new National Assembly held its first session in 2008. The Bhutan Peace and Prosperity Party won every seat but two, but the situation was reversed in 2013 when the People's Democratic Party secured 32/47 seats.

Once again, change was on its way but in this traditional building oozing Buddhist values, the mission is the same, whoever is in power: 'to achieve the goal of Gross National Happiness enshrined in the Constitution' and endorsed by the highly-respected king and monks' body. 

Bright Lights in Thimphu ©Solange Hando

Thimphu has grown tenfold in the past decade or so and western dress is a common sight though at festival time, everyone loves to show off their best traditional clothes, kira for the ladies and gho for the men. The capital has its share of modern shops but craftsmen and artists still practise their ancient skills and on the roundabout, a policeman directs the traffic with the grace of a ballet dancer. There are no traffic lights.

Likewise, towns such as Punakha or Wangdi Phrodang have seen new districts popping up, financed by the World Bank and paying lip service to traditional architecture. But apartments are modern, less susceptible to fire and the people like them.

Paro Airport ©Solange Hando

Efforts to increase tourism have been successful and the infrastructure is still catching up. Druk Air, the national carrier, now shares the load with the private Bhutanese Airlines and there are a number of domestic flights which operate subject to weather conditions and passenger numbers.

The west to east highway is being upgraded across its entire length so traffic is slower than it ever was but the scenery is just as stunning.

The Black Mountains ©Solange Hando

Respect for nature and all living things remains at the heart of Bhutanese culture and that is unlikely to change for the time being. The slightest hint of a new dam arouses concerns about wild life and so far the balance is on the side of conservation. Bears roam unhindered in the forest, snow leopards and even tigers survive at high altitude and in the Phobjikha Valley, the return of black-necked cranes in the autumn is greeted with a special festival.

Tilling the Land in the Ura Valley ©Solange Hando

At first sight the pace of change is much slower in the countryside and there lies the greatest challenge for 21st century Bhutan: youngsters heading for the city, drawn by the bright lights and the lure of well paid jobs that are few and far in between. Private enterprise is in its infancy and until business skills are developed, the problem is likely to grow.

Meanwhile in the country, there are fewer farmers to till the land and fewer young people to care for the elderly and keep families together.   

Children Attending a Festival, Punakha Dzong ©Solange Hando

But it is the children who hold the key to the future and with Bhutan's laudable efforts in education and encouragement from all leaders, religious or civic, there is every reason to hope that they will achieve a fine balance between tradition and progress. Bhutan is not a 'museum' but it does have something special which is worth preserving.

Bhutan's Royalty

 Traditional Festivities in Bhutan ©Solange Hando

Bhutan is changing for sure but traditions and culture remain as strong as ever, anchored in the Buddhist faith and respect for the royal family.

In 2015, celebrations were held throughout the kingdom in honour of the 4th King's 60th birthday. They culminated in Thimphu on November 11th when soon after dawn, crowds made their way to the stadium to enjoy a colourful mix of parades, traditional dances and games and a heartfelt tribute from the current king to his father.

His Majesty the 5th King Meeting his People ©Solange Hando

Democracy came to Bhutan in 2008 but the royal family is as popular as ever, symbolising the country's unity and culture, but what the people appreciate most is their approachability and simple lifestyle. 

Don't expect a sumptuous residence or even a castle, the Royal Palace is a comfortable but modest cottage tucked among the trees on the edge of the capital, with one guard on duty at a gate you might not even notice. Then there's a retreat in Punakha which would do nicely for a solitary monk.

 Just as important, the king is close to his people, mingling with the crowds at festival time, walking across the kingdom to meet them if the occasion demands or stopping his car at the roadside to chat to farmers and villagers, listening to their concerns as an attendant makes notes which will be followed up. Just like his father did. 

Portraits of the 4th King (right) and his Son at the Birthday Celebrations ©Solange Hando

During his 34 years on the throne, until he stepped down for his son in 2006, the 4th Dragon King of Bhutan moved his country forward in bold but measured steps, reinforcing unity under the 'one nation, one people' banner, modernising the kingdom and opening the gates to the outside world while maintaining traditional Bhutanese values.

But most of all, he gave democracy to his people because he felt the time was right. Both his retirement and the new system shook the nation at the time but today, he is seen as an enlightened leader who paved the way for the future.

Punakha Dzong, Royal Wedding Location ©Solange Hando

Meanwhile in 2011, the 5th King married the young Jetsun Pema in Punakha dzong, 'the fortress of great happiness' where the first King of Bhutan was crowned. After the wedding, the King and his Queen walked more or less all the way back to Thimphu, 71km and 13 hours away, so they could meet the thousands of people who lined up along the road to pay their respects.

That's just one of the reasons why they call His Majesty 'the People's King', keen to greet them one by one and lend a hand as needed: when the magnificent dzong of Wangdi Phrodang was destroyed by fire in 2012, he left Thimphu and rushed to the site to help villagers salvage what they could.

Then at the royal celebrations in 2015, the 5th King delivered the long awaited news that a royal heir was on his way. The crowds loved it and a gentle wave of jubilation rippled across the stadium. The baby is due in the early spring and there couldn't have been a better birthday present for the 4th King.

The King and Queen of Bhutan

The 4th King had four wives but His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck has opted for one and a love marriage, even holding hands in public in a land where Gross National Happiness is enshrined in the Constitution.

Dwarika's Hotel, Welcome back to Kathmandu

 Swimming Pool in the Style of Ancient Royal Baths ©Solange Hando

After the earthquake, Dwarika's offered shelter to many of the victims but as the city slowly returns to normal life, visitors enjoy once again one of Kathmandu's most stunning hotels, a superb architectural gem unscathed by the disaster.

Named after its founder and still managed by his wife and daughter, it was the dream of a man who fell in love with Newari heritage, collecting carved windows, pillars and doors for his small family home. Later this was transformed into a boutique hotel to help finance the preservation of local culture and training of young craftsmen.

Dwarika's Traditional Entrance ©Solange Hando

Carved doors and pottery guardians set the tone as soon as you approach the entrance, leading to a lush oasis of plants, flowers and trees, just steps away from the dust and chaos of Kathmandu's streets,

Here nothing disturbs the peace but the sound of tumbling water and the twittering of birds, especially at dawn and dusk. There are offerings by the shrine and the fragrance of incense and marigolds lingers in the air.

Quiet Courtyard ©Solange Hando

The grounds are divided into attractive courtyards, never crowded and each one different from the next, here a place to sip Nepali tea, there somewhere to chill out under white drapes or gaze at warm red bricks glowing in the sunset festooned in persimmon and poinsettia trees.

Traditional Room and a Touch of Colour ©Solange Hando

Dwarika's has 86 individually designed rooms and suites, from the royal suite to heritage deluxe rooms, all spacious and furnished with artwork and organic linen. In-room amenities include everything you would expect from a 5 star hotel, including chocolates on your pillow.

Add a business centre, gym, Himalayan spa, and a boutique selling pashmina shawls, traditional paintings and more, what else could you want?

Food and drink? 

The choice is yours with international and Japanese restaurants and a Nepali venue offering up to 22 regional courses, plus a fusion bar for cocktails and snacks and a log fire on request. Alternatively you can dine outdoors under a star-studded sky.

A Spot of Shade ©Solange Hando

Then of course, Dwarika  can arrange your sightseeing tours but in such a lovely place, you may well be tempted to stay in the shade, until it's time to go to the airport, barely 10 minutes away.

The Iguazu Falls, Argentina versus Brazil

Shooting Rainbows over Iguazu, Argentina ©Solange Hando

The natives called Iguazu ''big water' and with an average flow of 10 million litres per second in season, it's easy to see why.Stretching for 2.7 km, the cliff face is streaked by up to 300 waterfalls, plunging 60 to 90 metres from the upper to the lower Iguazu river.

Straddling Argentina and Brazil, the falls came to the world's attention when Spanish explorer Cabeza de Vaca stumbled upon them in the 16th century. 'Santa Maria', he exclaimed as he set eyes on one of the most powerful cataracts, and so it is still called today.

Crested Jay in Iguazu ©Solange Hando

Surrounded by rainforest, the Iguazu National Parks are protected on both sides by UNESCO and wild life can often be spotted near the falls, especially birds like macaws, parrots, toucans and jays.

Meanwhile caimans lurk in the lower reaches, jaguars and coral snakes hide in the forest and monkeys play havoc in the trees.

The Devil's Throat, Argentina ©Solange Hando

On the Argentinian side, tourist amenities have been kept well away from the falls and to reach the most popular cataract, you have to board an eco-train then make your way across the upper river on a km long walkway.

All seems placid at first until thunder begins to roar and suddenly you come face to face with the mighty Devil's Throat, the easiest fall to access on that side where you can also explore a network of trails.

 View of Iguazu Falls from the Air ©Solange Hando

Argentina claims 80% of the falls but since the cliff face is shaped like an inverted J, the Devil's Throat offers a limited view.

Brazil on the other hand reveals a stunning panorama across its own falls and most of those in Argentina. You can view the falls by helicopter and although amenities on that side are much closer to the falls, they're out of sight as soon as you make your way down the panoramic path.

Raccoon Looking for Spoils in Iguazu ©Solange Hando

Of course this raccoon knows nothing of borders but if you want to enjoy Iguazu from both sides, it's easy enough. It's just a short drive to the border bridge where the paint changes colour half way along -to reflect the national flags- and you can get a glimpse of Paraguay as well.

Rainbow over Iguazu, Brazil ©Solange Hando

Here on the Brazilian side, you look right across the falls, first from the top then at water level where a wooden walkway (top right in the picture) takes you to the heart of it all, but expect to get drenched. Or if you dare, you can hop on a boat and shoot the rapids.

For the best of both worlds, see the Devil's Throat in Argentina then go across to Brazil for the most spectacular views and a shot of adrenalin to top it all.

Tokyo, Cool and Traditional

Tablet and Kimonos, Tokyo ©Solange Hando

From technology to magnetic trains, Japan is zooming ahead but on special occasions, the traditional dress gives everyone a chance to look fabulous while preserving cultural links with the past.

Then of course, you do have to record it all on your tablet and share it with friends...

Buddhist Shrine in Tokyo ©Solange Hando

This is a quiet hidden corner in Asakusa Kannon, Tokyo's oldest Buddhist complex and a bustling place where among clouds of incense, statues and paper lanterns, fortune tellers and fast food chefs cater to every visitor's needs.

It's a popular temple if you wish to seek advice for the future or earn merits for the after life, for yourself or others.

Shibuya ©Solange Hando

It's rather different in Shibuya which many regard as the Piccadilly Circus of Tokyo. This is the place to meet your friends by the statue of the legendary dog who waited until death, for a master who never returned.

It's a lively district so don't be fooled by the empty crossings on the picture. As soon as the lights turn green, crowds will appear from nowhere, as disciplined as you would expect them to be for this is Tokyo, not London or Paris.

Traditional Shinto Wedding in Meiji Shrine ©Solange Hando

The Shinto religion is based on respect for nature and the many spirits who live there so shrines are located in natural surroundings.

When this shrine was built on the edge of Tokyo to honour Emperor Meiji, 100,000 trees were planted over seven years to welcome the spirits, 

Weddings aside, look out for the wishing tree where worshippers and visitors are invited to leave a message, as did President Obama for world peace.

Tokyo 21st Century ©Solange Hando

But whatever the traditions in Tokyo, the enduring image is that of a modern city with soaring skyscrapers and stunning architecture from the business district to the elegant bridges across the bay, the Tokyo Tower or the popular Statue of Liberty.

Yet, for many visitors, much of the charm lies in the careful handling of old and new, preserving cultural traditions while embracing the modern world and a bright future.

Here's to Tokyo, Ready to Go

 ©Solange Hando

Aberdour near Edinburgh, Scotland's Hidden Gem

Harbour in Aberdour ©Solange Hando

Aberdour makes a lovely day trip from Edinburgh, just a 30 minutes ride from the city over the spectacular bridge spanning the Firth of Forth.

The name means 'water mouth'-here the Dour Burn enters the Forth- and when the railway replaced the pleasure steamers, the old coal harbour transformed itself once again and is now a delightful marina, tucked between the old jetty and the wooded banks.

Aberdour Castle ©Solange Hando

In this sheltered and strategic spot on the south shores of the Fife, the Mortimer family built the first castle and the nearby church of St Fillan around the 12th century. Later the property passed into the hands of the Douglas family, where it remained ever since, and was extended many times over the centuries.

At first sight, there seems little to explore but don't be fooled: these nostalgic ruins will take you by surprise, here a cavernous fireplace, there a bread oven, a tumbling tower or the original well. Best of all are the extensive terraced gardens, complete with orchard, beehive dovecot with 600 boxes and superb views over the countryside and the estuary.

Coastal Path on Aberdour Peninsula ©Solange Hando

In Aberdour, you can follow the coastal path around the peninsula, in a protected area where you might spot all sorts of birds, including oyster catchers and redshanks. Here and there, trees and shrubs cling to sheer cliffs and masses of wild flowers bloom along the trail, honeysuckle, foxgloves, thistles and more.

This is part of the Fife Coastal Path, stretching 117 miles from the Forth to the Tay and claiming the longest continuous coastal walk in Scotland.

Looking back to Aberdour from the Fife Coastal Path ©Solange Hando

By clear weather, even on this small Aberdour section, you can be sure of gorgeous views, the village nestling in the bay, the hills rolling all around, the open waters of the estuary where you might see Inchcolm Island and its abbey, popular for weddings, and Edinburgh in the distance.

Aberdour Silver Sands Beach ©Solange Hando

Then, when you reach the tip of the peninsula, you discover the fine Silver Sands, the most popular of Aberdour's two beaches, though almost deserted at times.

Add the old village with its winding lanes, the gardens blooming with flowers, the haunting castle, the quaint little church and it's no wonder that Aberdour, this small undiscovered gem, should have received so many awards in recent years, including 'Best Small Coastal Village' in Fife and Scotland.

Aberdour, Village in Bloom ©Solange Hando