2008? Most Amazing and still Dreaming...

Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, King of Bhutan ©Solange Hando

If anyone had ever told me  I'd shake hands with a King on his Coronation day, I would never have believed it. But on 6th November 2008, there I was, in Bhutan, joining in the celebrations for five incredible days of local colour and traditions.

The son received the 'raven's crown' from his retiring father (52) before meeting the special guests who offered good wishes and auspicious white scarves.

Bhutanese Pageantry on Coronation Day ©Solange Hando

Following a religious ceremony in Punakha, the fomer capital, a few days earlier, the main event was held in Thimphu, the modern capital, in Tashichho Dzong, a fortified Buddhist monastery rebuilt in modern times but loyal to ancient traditions.

Dancers, drummers, horn blowers, flag bearers, the courtyard was a blaze of colours as groups from far and wide attended, wearing bright costumes and traditional boots.

Gifts for the King ©Solange Hando

Gifts were brought to the King from across the country, a bag of rice, a sack of grain, fruit, flowers, as thousands of locals sat in the stadium to watch it all. Most exciting were the elephants from down south which very few people in the capital had ever seen.

No diamonds, no jewels, but His Majesty stood through it all, blessing every single gift before it was returned to its owner by royal request.

His Majesty Meeting the People ©Solange Hando

In the afternoon, people gathered to meet their King, offering more traditional scarves and receiving a special coronation medal. So many people wanted to pay their respects, an extra day had to be added at the end of the week.

Everyone wore their best national dress while the King's yellow cape is the royalty symbol. See how the King bends down to get close to the people he promised to serve. The gathering lasted a full afternoon and His Majesty had to request his family's help to get around all present.

Mingling with the Locals ©Solange Hando

I could have stayed with the press but I loved to meet the locals, their English was amazing, even my little friends the boy monks.

I met families who had walked across the mountains for over a week to see their King and Buddhist nuns who had hitched a lift on an already overloaded truck, after their names were picked out from a bowl. They promised to report everything to the nunnery on their return.

Traditional Dancing ©Solange Hando

Religious dancers in robes and masks performed to ensure auspicious times but this was also a celebration for the people and by the people, as schoolchildren and others awaited their turn to dance for His Majesty.

They had been training for months right across the country and designed their own costumes with local materials.

It had been agreed that the week's celebrations should come at minimum cost for the country and even for special guests (only a handful of them). 

 

Archery National Sport ©Solange Hando

But there was plenty of fun, including a strong man contest, a tug of war, a pillow fight when the loser would end up in a bowl of water. The King even left his seat to have a closer look and roar with laughter...

Then before the farewell dance, there was an archery contest when royal members took part . See the King above, raising his bow in the middle, ready for the traditional victory dance when his team scored top points.

Still Dreaming ©Solange Hando

 

  

 

 

Latin America, My Favourite Spots

Iguazu Falls, Brazil ©Solange Hando

My top favourite, on the border between Argentina (80% of the falls) and Brazil (best views of them all.) Notice the walkway (top right) where you can get amazingly close beyond the rainbow and get soaking wet, plastic gear provided.

The falls (over 200 of them) stretch 2.7km and drop 82 metres in places. Tourists carefully monitored so you really feel at the heart of it all, overwhelmed by sound and sight. 

La Boca, Buenos Aires ©Solange Hando

Just one of 48 'barrio' in the Argentinian capital, this neighbourhood is all traditional buildings and cobbled lanes close to the old harbour and 21st century tower blocks.

Enjoy Italian tavernas and Spanish Tango on the streets  -join in if you dare- and see artists, markets and humble dwellings, bright cheerful colours, all along the way.

Lake District, Chile ©Solange Hando

South of the capital Santiago, a spectacular flight takes you over the snow-capped mountains to the Andes Lake District shared between Chile and Argentina. Above is the lovely Peulla in Chile, so quiet and pristine.

On the Argentinian side, I enjoyed the attractive resort of Bariloche with its luminous lake, volcanoes, forests and spectacular views, hike in summer, ski in winter.

Costa Rica, Making Friends ©Solange Hando

Well, I'd need a whole album to show you Costa Rica -wild life and volcanoes included- but here's just one happy friend, helping me to celebrate my birthday.

Let's jus say that that this is an amazing country, top rated for Human Development and Conservation, between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. Back in 1949, it abolished its army to spend money on health care, education and preserving the natural world. A lesson for us all?

 

Peru, Lake Titicaca ©Solange Hando

So much to see in Peru, I especially loved Cusco and Machu Picchu, but meeting the Uros Indians on Lake Titicaca is my most endearing memory.

Long ago, they set up home on the lake, harvesting reeds to build floating islands where enemies could not reach them. It's a continuous process even today but the Uros are doing well with fishing, local crafts and even technology. Shared with Bolivia, Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world, 3810 metres.

Mexico, Chichen Itza ©Solange Hando

In the Yucatan peninsula, this was the largest city built by the Mayas and Kukulcan (above) is the most spectacular monument. The 30 metre high stepped pyramid takes its name from a snake god, said to cast its 'shadow' across the steps during the spring and autumn equinox.

It's a top attraction, accessible from coastal resorts, but go early and you can have it all to yourself as you ponder on this powerful yet cruel civilisation.

Guatemala, Sunset on Lake Atitlan ©Solange Hando

Up in the highlands of Sierra Madre, Atitlan is the deepest lake in Central America (max. 340 metres). Set in a vast caldera in the National Park, it is 18 km long and fringed by three 'new' volcanoes, at least one of them still active.

There are traditional Maya villages in the neighbourhood but no road around the lake so it is often considered one of the most beautiful in the world

Cuba ©Solange Hando

The largest island in the Caribbean

Dancing, music, tradition, colour

What more could you want?

A cigar?

Rolled on a lady's thigh, of course

  

Br

 

Southern Africa my Favourite Spots

 

South Africa Drakensberg ©Solange Hando

The Zulus call it 'Barrier of Spears' and this is the highest mountain range in the country. A place for stunning views, rare species and spectacular sunsets.

Drive all the way up to the Sani pass if you dare, 2784 metres, enjoy a meal in the pub and if time allows, spend the night in a traditional rondavel or pop over the border into Lesotho.

                                                               Namib Desert ©Solange Hando

This is the 'sea of sand' spreading all along the coast of Namibia, across the borders and inland for up to 120 km. They say it is the oldest desert in the world and claims some of the highest dunes.

This is an amazing place with dried up oases and skeleton trees but at times some unexpected greenery benefitting from moisture from the nearby Atlantic. Look out for wild life, including the oryx gazelle, Namibia's national animal.

                                                            Victoria Falls in Zambia ©Solange Hando

Plunging down to 108 metres, the Victoria Falls spread 17 km across Zambia and Zimbabwe- the quieter side-, protected by Unesco and national parks on both sides.

On the Zambian side, you can walk along the 'knife's edge' bridge but only the brave should bathe in the Devil's Pool on Livingstone Island. 

                                                     Chobe National Park in Botswana ©Solange Hando

Easily accessed from neighbouring Zambia, this is a great wilderness of wetlands and riverine forest meandering along the blue Chobe river.

It's a haven for wild life on land and water, elephants, giraffes, hippos, crocs, buffaloes and more, and 460 species of birds. One of the best safaris in Africa.

                                                       Madagascar Land of Lemurs ©Solange Hando

Off the east coast of Africa in the Indian Ocean, this is a big island but two national parks are relatively close to Antananarivo, the capital, most popular Andasibe, a four hour drive or so.

Andasibe's easy trails give you to chance to see a range of lemurs in the wild, including the indri, the largest- and the beautiful 'dancing lemur', as seen on the picture. 

                                                                  Reunion Island ©Solange Hando

Just east of Madagascar, Reunion is a volcanic hotspot, all ravines, gorges and peaks, very green except for the Furnace Peak which erupts every few months.

But in this far away French department, there's plenty to do and see from forlorn villages and mountain treks to tropical beaches and seaside resorts with few crowds.

                                                                 Mauritius ©Solange Hando

          Then if you need to relax, just check out the paradise island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean.

Herne Bay Seaside Resort on the North Kent Coast

                                        Herne Bay Traditional Bandstand ©Solange Hando

Designed in 1924, later extended with an art deco frontage, it was almost abandoned but beautifully refurbished in the 1990s.

Today it's a great place to meet family and friends with cafe restaurant and ice cream parlour, sit indoors or in the spacious courtyard with garden and sea views and traditional concerts in summer.

                                                  Herne Bay Seafront ©Solange Hando

See the clock tower?  This is the other landmark in Herne Bay, built in 1836-37 by a rich widow who enjoyed holidays in the resort. It is one the earliest free-standing towers of its kind in the country.

A Grade II listed building and 82 feet high including the weathervane, it looks across the sandy part of the beach and the small inner harbour.

Central Parade on Herne Bay Seafront ©Solange Hando

Herne Bay enjoyed its first golden age in the Victorian era as one of the nearest seaside resorts to London. With its Victorian and Edwardian architecture, the Parade is a conservation area, enhanced by flower gardens and palm trees leading to the promenade along the shore.

Look out for the Ship Inn, a historic seafront pub, also Grade II, once a smugglers' haunt, now popular with cyclists and walkers on the Saxonshore Way.

                                                            View from the Shore ©Solange Hando

Grass on the beach? That's conservation... and on the right you see the end of Neptune's Arm, with viewing platform, built in the 1990s to prevent flooding.

On the left is the end of the pier, once the second longest in England, but severely damaged by the storm in 1978. It has been partially rebuilt, leaving its former 'head' out at sea. 

                                                                     On the Pier ©Solange Hando

But Herne Bay pier enjoys a new lease of life, with free entrance to the 'pier village' lined with colourful beach-hut like venues for casual eating, in or outdoors, and local craft shops.

There are fabulous views back to the shore or out to sea and entertainment for the children, most popular the merry-go round and helter-skelter.

                                                                  Reculver Towers ©Solange Hando

Just three miles east of Herne Bay central parade, you can stroll around this lovely country park topped by the twin towers of the old St Mary's church and Roman remains on the clifftop. Superb sea views, traditional pub and children's playground.

You can drive there from town or walk along the sea wall to the start of the wide grassy cliffs, a 'Special Protection Area' for birds and insects. There you can join the Oyster Trail laced in cycle and walking paths.

                                                Sunset and Herne Bay Pier Head out to Sea ©Solange Hando

 

Enjoy the Isle of Thanet in East Kent

 

Margate Beach ©Solange Hando

An island only by name on the northern tip of east Kent, Thanet has lovely coves and wide sandy beaches, most popular Margate for its easy access from London, motorway/and dual carriageway or direct rail line. The main beach has all you would expect for family entertainment with nearby funfair, arcades and affordable eating venues.

Walpole Living Museum in Margate ©Solange Hando

But if you like more than the beach, a must-see for art lovers is the Turner Contemporary named after the artist who painted the sunset on this spot, free entrance. Also worth considering is the Walpole Living Museum for an amazing picture of bygone days, character accommodation and cream tea, Sunday roast and lunch available to anyone. 

                                                 Broadstairs on Thanet ©Solange Hando

Facing east just around the corner, Broadstairs is a lovely resort, with a crescent beach nestling below the cliffs. It is more exclusive than Margate, usually quieter, almost village-like with lanes winding down to the beach. It's best to park some distance away from the shore, especially during festival week.

                                                           Broadstairs Dickens Festival ©Solange Hando

The Dickens Festival is usually held in June when locals dress in traditional costumes for the Grand Parade, the country fair and beach parties, including paddling and swimming in appropriate gear.

Dickens first came to Broadstairs at the age of 25 then returned on several occasions, finding inspiration for David Copperfield.

                                                                     Ramsgate Harbour ©Solange Hando

Just south of Broadstairs and within walking distance, you reach Ramsgate with a glistening harbour right in the town centre, a long sandy beach where the future Queen Victoria came to play as a child and a scenic walk along the clifftop with superb views across the Channel and the French coast by clear weather.

 Ramsgate Viking Ship ©Solange Hando

This may be your highlight on the Viking Trail as you reach Pegwell Bay on the edge of Ramsgate.  It is a replica of course  but it sailed all the way from Denmark in 1949, using traditional instruments, to commemorate the 1500th anniversary of the Viking invasion.

Sunset on the North Kent Coast near Margate ©Solange Hando

Devon Cruising on the Dart

Dartmouth ©Solange Hando

      Dartmouth is the start of the upriver cruise to Totnes, a lovely place with a gleaming marina, half-timbered buildings and steep flower-draped lanes with spectacular views from the hill top.

    If you are staying in the 'English Riviera', consider the 'round robin' tour which takes you on a steam train from Paignton with spectacular views along the Devon coast, down to Kingston on the left bank of the Dart then across to Dartmouth on a three minute ferry ride.

Dart Cruise, Ready to Go ©Solange Hando

Departure times will depend on the tide but if you come on the round robin, this will be sorted out, giving you plenty of time to look around Dartmouth and enjoy a spot of lunch before boarding.

If you do this on your own, you will have a choice of boats, including a paddle steamer on specific dates. But don't leave it to chance, book early, especially in the summer season.

Dart Estuary ©Solange Hando

    If the tide is right, the cruise will briefly take you downstream, past the medieval castles which once guarded the river mouth on either side.

    Then turn around and enjoy superb views of Dartmouth from the water, town clinging to the hills, yachts, the impressive Royal Britannia Naval College and you might just spot the steam train puffing away through the trees.

On the River Dart ©Solange Hando

    Now all is quiet, first along forested banks, all different trees and maybe a mighty oak here and there, once so common they gave the river its Celtic name.

    It's a lovely time to relax, just the odd boat now and then, a lonely cottage on the river bank and a hamlet or two, loved by visitors but still genuine and traditional.

Canadian Geese on the River Dart ©Solange Hando

    This is your chance to see the wild life, flocks of Canadian geese in season, an osprey, a rare dipper, a colourful kingfisher and lots of egrets and black-headed gulls.The river is also rich in fish, especially salmon and trout.

    Then before you leave the wooded area, look out for the elegant Georgian house peeping through he trees om the hill top. This was the holiday home of Agatha Christie and the place which inspired some of her murder stories. 

Devon Hills along the Dart ©Solange Hando

    After a while, the views open up as rolling hills rise above the river, dotted with ancient stones and cattle grazing on lush grass. 

    You may see a few canoeists and not far from Totnes, look out for the vineyards of Sharpam Estate which offer award-winning wines and also make their own cheese.

Totnes ©Solange Hando

Ninety minutes or so after leaving Datmouth, you reach the end of the cruise in Totnes as you approach the old bridge, the last one before the river heads downstream through deep water and steep valleys.

Totnes is an attractive place to look around with its bohemian lanes full of artists, historic church,  Devon cream teas and panoramic views from the hill top castle.

Totnes on the River Dart ©Solange Hando

    

    

 

Ethiopia Top Attraction Lalibela

Lalibela ©Solange Hando

Lalibela? But where is the town?.. in the middle of nowhere, a fairly long drive from the namesake airport, up steep winding hills through rugged scenery with a few clusters of trees hiding the all important water. 

But eventually you reach a bustling settlement, houses climbing up the slopes with spectacular views all round.

St George's Carved out of the Rock ©Solange Hando

Top attraction and listed by UNESCO are the rock-hewn churches, 13 of them dating back to medieval times. The first one was designed by King Lalibela,  carved from the rock underground to protect it from natural disasters and possible invasions.

Traditional Interior, Orthodox Church Lalibela ©Solange Hando

Lalibela was designed as a new Jerusalem, a haven for pilgrims who still come from far and wide to do their devotions. Beautifully decorated with paintings and drapes, each church is different, accessed via steep steps, underground passages and tunnels.

Priests are around all day and as elsewhere in this highly religious country, you can expect the Orthodox call to prayer at first light every day.

View from my Hotel in Lalibela ©Solange Hando

But there's more to Lalibela than churches. Once you're up there, expect spectacular views all round and always changing, from the deserted side just beyond town to tiny road and lane meandering up from the airport towards panoramic hotels draped in greenery and tropical flowers.

Coffee Time? ©Solange Hando

For neighbours, family and friends, traders or visitors, coffee is an essential part of life, prepared according to rituals in a special ceremony which can take 30 minutes or more.

This is the delicious coffee arabica, first grown in Ethiopia, and they say any problem can be solved over a cup of coffee.

Traditional Huts ©Solange Hando

Wander around and you find a few traditional huts, restored for show, an amazing hilltop restaurant managed by a Scottish lady and a week-end market downtown where you can bargain for anything, including goats.

Sunset from Panoramic Hotel ©Solange Hando