Bukhara on the Silk Road in Uzbekistan

Bukhara Poi Kalyon Complex ©Solange Hando

Madrassas, mosques, mausoleums, there's so much to see in Bukhara you'd need a full week to do it justice but if time is limited, Poi Kalyon is the place you should not miss, right at the heart of the Old Town.

Meaning 'at the foot of the Great',  it includes a mosque which can hold 10000 worshippers, a madrassa still providing a four year programme of religious studies and a minaret rising 45 metres above the town.

The Trading Domes ©Solange Hando

A popular access to the complex is through the restored medieval domes, originally housing the money changers, hat makers and jewellers.  Today you can shop for all sorts of local crafts, from puppets to pottery or textile, including Suzani embroidery, enhanced with decorative threads, and Ikat silk shimmering in rainbow colours.

Weaving Carpets in Bukhara ©Solange Hando

But especially prized are the lovely silk carpets, among them the 'magic' carpets, so called for they are double-sided so you get two for the price of one. Not cheap but quality guaranteed.

Designs range from Uzbek geometric patterns to Persian flowers and the more you walk on your silk carpet, the tighter the knots and the longer it will last.

Lyabi Hauz Complex ©Solange Hando

Shaded by mulberry trees, the square is set around an ancient reservoir, 42 metres long by 36 across, glistening with the reflections of  traditional buildings draped in blue tiles and wood.

It was once a focal point for merchants and entertainers but today this is a beautifully quiet place where you can relax by the water or sip a drink in the shade.

The Ark, Bukhara's Landmark ©Solange Hando

With its mud brick walls glowing in the sun, the fortress of the Ark is one of the city's top icons, first recorded in the 7th century and reconstructed many times.

What you see today mostly dates from the 16th century, partly restored after a major fire, Beyond the steep stone ramp and gate, you will find a couple of museums, calligraphy exhibits and spine-chilling stories from the past. 

Remembering the Silk Road in Bukhara ©Solange Hando

Uzbekistan Samarkand on the Silk Road

Samarkand on the Silk Road ©Solange Hando

Samarkand dazzles you every step of the way with magnificent buildings restored with great dedication and fond memories of medieval merchants.

Once laden with exotic goods, they travelled from far and wide across Central Asia, marvelling, just as we do today, at the legendary wonders of this amazing city.

The Bibi Khanym Mosque ©Solange Hando

Among the top attractions is this 15th century mosque, commissioned by Bibi Khanym as a gift for Timur, her husband and victorious warrior, now a national hero. The mosque was rebuilt after an earthquake but still feels haunted by one of the saddest stories in the land.

Having fallen in love with Bibi, the architect kissed the lady on the cheek but when Timur returned from his campaign in India, he noticed the mark and executed his rival. Some say the lady suffered the same fate but no one is really sure. 

Shah-i Zinda Necropolis ©Solange Hando

Up on a hill on the edge of town, this necropolis includes a mausoleum honouring the 'Living King', cousin of the Prophet Mohammed and patron saint of Samarkand.

It is 35 steps to the top, a challenge on a hot day, but well worth the effort as you join worshippers making their way through the long alleyway of shrines, covered in blue and turquoise tiles.

Ulug Beg ©Solange Hando

Born in 1394, Timur's grandson was passionate about culture and science, especially astronomy for which he built the world's largest observatory at that time, on a hill but underground to protect it from earthquakes. He studied the sun and the moon and accurately positioned over 1000 stars.

Unfortunately, though widely remembered as an astronomer, Ulug Beg was not a strong ruler and he was eventually overthrown and executed by his son.

The Registan ©Solange Hando

Designed between the 15th and 17th century, Samarkand's central square claims three fabulous madrassas, fronted by a raised viewing platform for snap-happy tourists and wedding photos. The oldest building is the Ulug Beg Madrassa, on the left..

Enjoy the glowing towers and archways, ribbed minarets, restored mosaics, small souvenir shops and workshops and in the Tiger Madrassa on the right, free demonstrations of traditional music. Don't miss the stunning sound and light shows in season.

Registan

The golden ceiling in the central Tilla Kari Madrassa ©Solange Hando