Saturday 29 February 2020

My Favourite Riad in Taroudant, the mini-Marrakech in Southern Morocco

Riad Dar Zitoune in Taroudant ©Solange Hando

Great places to stay in Morocco are the boutique hotels known as riad, traditionally designed and furnished to highlight the local culture.
Dar Zitoune -meaning the Olive- is just outside Taroudant, a pretty town down south with few visitors but lots of atmosphere and a 7km medieval city wall which gave it the name of 'mini-Marrakech.


Luxury Room in Dar Zitoune ©Solange Hando

The two images above were taken in the new Berber Village, the most luxurious section of this 4 star riad where large tented rooms nestle around their own private pool.
Moroccan rugs, fine bedding and traditional patterns along the walls, it's beautifully light and colourful and the perfect place for a special holiday.


Standard Bungalow at Dar Zitoune ©Solange Hando

But before you reach the Berber area, bungalows in pretty colours greet you around the garden among lemon and orange trees, papayas, jacaranda and a profusion of flowers and plants.
My own bungalow was delightful, all the amenities I would expect plus a traditional bathroom glowing with copper and a bed large enough for a whole family. Bungalows are named after local fruit and plants and most have a secluded terrace in their own little garden.



Breakfast Time in the Riad ©Solange Hando

The local staff are helpful and friendly, employed by Swiss owners who simply fell in love with Taroudant and Moroccan culture. The verandah is a lovely place in the early morning or you can eat al fresco under the parasols.
The gourmet restaurant offers local gastronomy like tagine and international fare like pasta or fish curry.


Pottery Garden ©Solange Hando

Then after a  peaceful night or a visit to the town, take time to enjoy this true oasis of peace, wander around the garden where local artists leave a touch here and there, or just sit in the shade or in the sun.
Then of course the standard area has its own swimming pool and if you feel like it, there's a fitness room and a spa with a choice of rituals and a Moroccan hammam. 


Dar Zitoune near Taroudant ©Solange Hando

Here's the entrance to the multi-award Dar Zitoune. The decorated wooden gates on the side are closed after dark when the sweet fragrance of orange blossom rises under the stars.







Saturday 8 February 2020

Rabat, Enchanting Capital of Morroco

Rabat, River and Ocean ©Solange Hando

Set on the banks of the Bouregreg as it reaches the Atlantic, Rabat is a pleasant city, easy to explore but with few tourists around and population wise, only seventh in the country.
Yet it's an amazing World Heritage Site, listed by UNESCO for its enticing mix of Islamic and Western heritage, ranging from medieval remains to the ambitious new town built by the French.


Mohammed Vth Mausoleum ©Solange Hando

On a hilltop esplanade overlooking river and city, this is the most important site for locals and visitors in the know. 
Marble walls and archways lead to the royal resting place, beautifully quiet and decorated with carved plaster, colourful geometric tiles and a stunning gold leaf ceiling.


Hassan Tower, Rabat ©Solange Hando

At the other end of the esplanade this red sandstone tower was first built in the 12th century, designed as a minaret for one of the grandest mosques in the world. The mosque was never finished but the tower remains the city's most iconic landmark, 44 metres high. 
The hundreds of circular stone columns at the base were meant to support the roof of the building but all work was abandoned when the Caliph who commissioned it passed away. 


Pretty Corner on the Bouregreg ©Solange Hando

Due to silting, the port is not as important as it was but you can still watch fishermen mending nets on the quay, or you might relax in a secluded cove or stroll along the lovely promenade and enjoy the most delicious seafood al fresco.
You can look across the walls and towers guarding the estuary while the white kasbah on the clifftop just begs to be discovered.


Oudaya Kasbah ©Solange Hando

This is the delightful Oudaya kasbah, a winding maze of deserted alleyways, all blue and white, draped in potted plants and flowers and mosaics glistening around the drinking fountains.
It's a lovely place to wander around, with scenic views from the top, and no commercialisation except a few displays of local craft as you approach the exit.


City Ramparts ©Solange Hando

These glowing ramparts and nearby Andalusian gardens take you back down to the river but if time allows, do have a look at the Chellah complex, on the edge of town, where storks rattle their beaks among remains of the Roman colony and Muslim necropolis.


Time to Relax... ©Solange Hando

You will find beach and hotels in town but if you'd like to escape for a night, make your way to Skhirat, a short drive south, and enjoy a romantic sunset from the 5 star  Amphitrite hotel and pool.