Tangier Cosmopolitan City in Northern Morocco

Tangier across the Strait of Gibraltar ©Solange Hando

Framed by the hills, at the meeting point of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, Tangier has always been on the important trade route but with the cargo port now moved 40 km out of town, it looks much more like a 'resort', complete with a brand new marina and fishing harbour.

Cruise ships can dock within walking distance of the old and new towns though if you really want to take it easy, there is a shuttle bus to take you there.

Harbour Mosque in Tangier ©Solange Hando

First sight is likely to be the new Harbour Mosque overlooking the sea, only open to worshippers but so elegant and lofty it is an emblem you cannot forget.

Mosques (and churches) are found across town, including the Grand Mosque in the old district, built in the 19th century on the site of a Portuguese cathedral, and later enlarged for Friday Prayers.

Medina in Tangier ©Solange Hando

Not to be missed is the medina clambering up the hill with tiny squares and meandering lanes, sky blue walls festooned in trellises and potted plants.

Walk up to the Kasbah, enjoy the views, explore the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, in a former sultan's palace, browse the local craft and sip mint tea on the Petit Socco square, once the place to avoid but now beautifully refreshed.

Bay of Tangier ©Solange Hando

Then of course there's the beach, vast sweeping sands stretching as far as you can see and camels waiting to take you on a ride if you dare. But if you prefer quiet coves and hidden bays, you will find a few out of town.

But take time to stroll down the new jetty between marina and beach, lunch in a spotless restaurant and marvel at the view right across the bay.

New Town, Tangier ©Solange Hando

Now along the seafront the New Town beckons in a range of styles, from 21st century tower blocks to colonial architecture with wrought iron balconies or gleaming white walls with pastel-coloured frames around windows and doors. It feels almost European and unique in Morocco.

Grand Socco in Tangier ©Solange Hando

This is the city's main square, also known as 'April 9th', remembering the momentous speech held by sultan Mohammed V in 1947, advocating independence for his people. It took almost 10 years to achieve but today the palm-lined square is a lovely place for locals to relax and meet their friends.

Nearby is the house where Matisse spent so much of his time, enchanted like so many artists and writers, by the luminous light and culture.

Gateway to Africa ©Solange Hando

 

 

Marrakesh my Favourite Spots

 

                                                            Koutoubia Mosque ©Solange Hando

The heart of Marrakesh is the Koutoubia Mosque, first built in the 12th century and beautifully renovated in 1997. Rising to 77 metres, the minaret can be seen from 25km away on a clear day.

The mosque is only open to worshippers but the lofty silhouette captures your gaze in the bright sunshine or in the late afternoon light when the the sweet fragrance of orange blossom lingers all around.

                                                                       Djemaa el Fna ©Solange Hando

Close to the Koutoubia, this is the main square, the place to enjoy a freshly squeezed citrus juice, dried fruit and nuts, and so much more. Fabulous in the evening with acrobats, drummers and dancers, card readers, food stalls, story tellers, snake charmers, it's colours, sounds and smells, a scene from the Arabian Nights.

Next to the square the medina tempts you with all sorts of local crafts, carved wood, copper, jewellery, babouches, textiles, leather, carpets and rugs..., plenty of time to bargain as you enjoy a free glass (or two) of mint tea.

                                                                  Majorelle Garden ©Solange Hando

Designed by French artist Majorelle, this 'blue oasis' took 40 years to complete and was later restored by Yves St Laurent. Trees and plants come from all over the world, colour, fragrance and enticing water features with myriad reflections.

The artist's former villa is now a Berber museum, showcasing heritage and tradition in a stunning setting. Take time to relax and enjoy as wagtails and turtledoves call from their favourite spots. 

                                                                       Bahia Palace ©Solange Hando

Close to the Atlas and indeed the desert, Marrakech is a must-see for its fabulous architecture as seen in this Bahia Palace where blue remains the favourite colour. Partly open to visitors, this vast palace was only created in the late 19th century, illustrating the perfect harmony between Andalusian and Moorish styles.

Water and reflections aside, look out for mosaics, carved cedar wood, arabesques and stucco work. See the marble courtyard and landscaped garden.

                                                                         El Badi ©Solange Hando

Outside the medina, these are the remains of the 'Incomparable Palace', built for the local sultan in 1578. Little is left of the original 360 rooms but this is a quiet atmospheric place where in season you might spot the 'auspicious' storks rattling their beaks on the battlements.

Wild flowers, roses and orange trees grow in the sunken garden but best of all I love the sandstone walls, glowing ochre-coloured in the African sun.

                                                               Menara Gardens ©Solange Hando

                         Escape from it all in this historic public garden and orchard listed by UNESCO.

  

Morocco Kasbah Hotel, Edge of the Desert, Enjoy and Travel Safe

Welcome to Hotel Xaluca ©Solange Hando

Built in kasbah style with adobe bricks and towers, Xaluca is a unique hotel with plenty of charm and character.

Located on the edge of the Sahara near Erfoud, far too hot for the virus spreading across Europe, it's the perfect place to explore the Merzouga dunes, a short drive away.. Then book a dromedary ride and enjoy the sunrise (or sunset) over the desert.

Xaluca Outdoor Pool ©Solange Hando

Step through the reception and you are greeted by this lovely pool in a spacious courtyard framed by palm trees. There are bougainvillea and bright Moroccan rugs spread on the paths, loungers, bar and lots of places to sit in the sun or in the shade.

Other facilities include a heated indoor pool and jacuzzi and a spa for beauty treatments, Vichy showers, massages and hammam.

Guest Room in Xaluca ©Solange Hando

The hotel has 137 rooms, standard and suites, and 7 secluded bungalows. All material used is local from ochre-coloured adobe walls to traditional Berber rugs and bed covers, mostly orange and red.

Bathrooms are rather special with tiles in geometric patterns, copper wash basins and adjoining shelves made of local stone engraved with ammonite and other fossils.

Breakfast Selection ©Solange Hando

Breakfast, dinner or snacks, there's plenty to enjoy on a generous buffet, from Moroccan specialities to continental offerings. Friendly staff and you can eat in or out. 

Tea, Madame? ©Solange Hando

Mint tea, leaves included or strained, sweet but no milk, it's likely to be poured from up high into a glass, sometimes with a silver teapot.  This old Moroccan tradition is a sign of hospitality and friendship.

Traditional Xaluca ©Solange Hando

Xaluca Hotel Kasbah is full of surprises with winding alleyways and archways leading to guest rooms and beyond. Wander around and discover hidden corners, finely decorated Kasbah towers and tiny cottage gardens.

  

My Favourite Riad in Taroudant, the mini-Marrakech in Southern Morocco

Riad Dar Zitoune in Taroudant ©Solange Hando

Great places to stay in Morocco are the boutique hotels known as riad, traditionally designed and furnished to highlight the local culture.

Dar Zitoune -meaning the Olive- is just outside Taroudant, a pretty town down south with few visitors but lots of atmosphere and a 7km medieval city wall which gave it the name of 'mini-Marrakech.

Luxury Room in Dar Zitoune ©Solange Hando

The two images above were taken in the new Berber Village, the most luxurious section of this 4 star riad where large tented rooms nestle around their own private pool.

Moroccan rugs, fine bedding and traditional patterns along the walls, it's beautifully light and colourful and the perfect place for a special holiday.

Standard Bungalow at Dar Zitoune ©Solange Hando

But before you reach the Berber area, bungalows in pretty colours greet you around the garden among lemon and orange trees, papayas, jacaranda and a profusion of flowers and plants.

My own bungalow was delightful, all the amenities I would expect plus a traditional bathroom glowing with copper and a bed large enough for a whole family. Bungalows are named after local fruit and plants and most have a secluded terrace in their own little garden.

Breakfast Time in the Riad ©Solange Hando

The local staff are helpful and friendly, employed by Swiss owners who simply fell in love with Taroudant and Moroccan culture. The verandah is a lovely place in the early morning or you can eat al fresco under the parasols.

The gourmet restaurant offers local gastronomy like tagine and international fare like pasta or fish curry.

Pottery Garden ©Solange Hando

Then after a  peaceful night or a visit to the town, take time to enjoy this true oasis of peace, wander around the garden where local artists leave a touch here and there, or just sit in the shade or in the sun.

Then of course the standard area has its own swimming pool and if you feel like it, there's a fitness room and a spa with a choice of rituals and a Moroccan hammam. 

Dar Zitoune near Taroudant ©Solange Hando

Here's the entrance to the multi-award Dar Zitoune. The decorated wooden gates on the side are closed after dark when the sweet fragrance of orange blossom rises under the stars.

Rabat, Enchanting Capital of Morroco

Rabat, River and Ocean ©Solange Hando

Set on the banks of the Bouregreg as it reaches the Atlantic, Rabat is a pleasant city, easy to explore but with few tourists around and population wise, only seventh in the country.

Yet it's an amazing World Heritage Site, listed by UNESCO for its enticing mix of Islamic and Western heritage, ranging from medieval remains to the ambitious new town built by the French.

Mohammed Vth Mausoleum ©Solange Hando

On a hilltop esplanade overlooking river and city, this is the most important site for locals and visitors in the know. 

Marble walls and archways lead to the royal resting place, beautifully quiet and decorated with carved plaster, colourful geometric tiles and a stunning gold leaf ceiling.

Hassan Tower, Rabat ©Solange Hando

At the other end of the esplanade this red sandstone tower was first built in the 12th century, designed as a minaret for one of the grandest mosques in the world. The mosque was never finished but the tower remains the city's most iconic landmark, 44 metres high. 

The hundreds of circular stone columns at the base were meant to support the roof of the building but all work was abandoned when the Caliph who commissioned it passed away. 

Pretty Corner on the Bouregreg ©Solange Hando

Due to silting, the port is not as important as it was but you can still watch fishermen mending nets on the quay, or you might relax in a secluded cove or stroll along the lovely promenade and enjoy the most delicious seafood al fresco.

You can look across the walls and towers guarding the estuary while the white kasbah on the clifftop just begs to be discovered.

Oudaya Kasbah ©Solange Hando

This is the delightful Oudaya kasbah, a winding maze of deserted alleyways, all blue and white, draped in potted plants and flowers and mosaics glistening around the drinking fountains.

It's a lovely place to wander around, with scenic views from the top, and no commercialisation except a few displays of local craft as you approach the exit.

City Ramparts ©Solange Hando

These glowing ramparts and nearby Andalusian gardens take you back down to the river but if time allows, do have a look at the Chellah complex, on the edge of town, where storks rattle their beaks among remains of the Roman colony and Muslim necropolis.

Time to Relax... ©Solange Hando

You will find beach and hotels in town but if you'd like to escape for a night, make your way to Skhirat, a short drive south, and enjoy a romantic sunset from the 5 star  Amphitrite hotel and pool.

Morocco Popular Film Locations

Ait Benhaddou in Morocco ©Solange Hando

Clear skies, scenery and light, Morocco is a magnet for film producers and cinema fans, with locations spreading from exotic towns to Berber villages, from ocean to mountains and deserts scattered with rose gardens and ribbons of palms.

Clinging to a barren hill mirrored in a red river, Ait Benhaddou is a World Heritage site as well as a top movie location, featured in Sheltering Sky, The Mummy, Gladiator, Jewel of the Nile and many more.

Film Studios in Ouarzazate ©Solange Hando

At 1160 metres, Ouarzazate enjoys a privileged location between mountains and desert, at the meeting point of two rivers. First brought to the fore by David Lean, the studios are among the largest in the world.

Cleopatra, The Living Daylight, Babel, The Man Who Would Be King included scenes shot in Ouarzazate.

Marrakesh, Djemaa el Fna Square ©Solange Hando

At the foot of the Atlas mountains, Marrakesh guarantees an authentic atmosphere in the most exotic setting.  Gleaming palaces and bustling souks, palm groves and ramparts, it's all you expect it to be but most exciting is the Djemaa el Fna Square where the daring Bill from Mamma Mia was seen racing his bike.

The old imperial city also appeared in Brideshead Revisited, Alexander and The Man Who Knew Too Much.

Dawn in the Moroccan Desert ©Solange Hando

Drama, romance, adventure, Morocco has seen it all but in the deep south, you can still imagine Lawrence of Arabia riding into the desert, just as he did in the legendary film.

Essaouira, Autumn Sunshine in Morocco

Essaouira Fishing Harbour ©Solange Hando

In the luminous bay of Mogador, an easy drive from Marrakech, Essaouira greets you with a pretty blue harbour and 18th century fortifications glowing honey-coloured under the African sun. It is all part of a World Heritage site celebrating this ancient trading post.

The trade winds from the Atlantic once brought merchants and sailors from far and wide and today they delight savvy visitors. They come to relax on the sweeping sands and enjoy some of the best wind and kite surfing along the coast. 

Essaouira Colourful Souk ©Solange Hando

Once a hippies' favourite, Essaouira is a sleepy little place these days except during the annual Gnaoua World Music Festival when the whole town vibrates to African beats.

Meanwhile, winter or summer, this sunny resort offers some of the best bargains around with almost no hassle at all. Best buys include rugs, wall hangings, traditional lamps and ceramics, thuya wood carvings and argan oil cosmetics. You can see the thorny argan trees on the road to Marrakech where goats clamber up the branches to feast on the precious nuts. 

Quiet Corner in the Medina (Old Town) ©Solange Hando

But most of all, Essaouira is a relaxed sort of place and just steps away from the stalls, there are plenty of quiet corners and alleyways where blue mosaics glisten here and there and craftsmen and artisans pursue their trade away from prying eyes.

Spices in Essaouira ©Solange Hando

By lunch time, the tantalising fragrance of Morrocan tagine drifts across the lanes and you may well be tempted to head back to the stalls and look for the best spices to take home.

They are surprisingly affordable, beautifully presented, and scent and colour are hard to resist. Bargaining is usual but as elsewhere in Morocco, be fair and know when to stop.

 Fish Restaurants ©Solange Hando

Between park and harbour, these blue and white casual venues serve an amazing array of seafood, fresh from the ocean. It's an absolute treat and one of the top attractions in Essaouira.

Time for a Siesta ©Solange Hando

Just don't expect the buzz of city life (that's down the coast in Agadir), but if you'd love a laid back holiday in the sun and a genuine Moroccan atmosphere, this little blue resort may be just right.

According to the locals, autumn is the best time to visit when the wind often dies down but temperatures remain pleasantly warm.