Friday 1 October 2021

My Favourite Spots in the Himalayas

Brahmaputra in Tibet ©Solange Hando

With its source in the Himalayas Kailash range, this is the young Brahmaputra draped in Buddhist prayer flags for an auspicious journey from Tibet to India and Bangladesh, where it will join the Ganges in the Bay of Bengal. The name means 'son of Brahma', the Hindu god, unusual since most rivers refer to female deities. 



Bhutan Tiger's Lair ©Solange Hando

Close to Paro and a morning climb to over 3000 meters, this is the kingdom's most iconic landmark where, they say, Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress, to meditate in a cave before spreading Buddhism across the valley. Blue pines, rhododendrons, waterfalls and stunning views, it's a fabulous trek to the top or you can ride a pony to the cafeteria half-way up.



Punakha in Bhutan ©Solange Hando

At just 1250 meters, the former capital feels almost tropical and is the winter home of the monks from Thimphu. At the confluence of two rivers, the fortified monastery (dzong) is an important pilgrimage site, especially during festival time. But Punakha is also a great place to trek in gentle hills and discover Bhutan's pristine nature and traditional villages. Bears in the forest but they tend to keep away.


Ladakh in Northern India ©Solange Hando

In summer you can fly from Delhi to Leh, Ladakh's capital, but the 2-3 day road journey from Manali takes you through spectacular scenery and allows you to acclimatise to high altitude. Then heading west on the edge of disputed Kashmir, you reach this so-called 'moonscape', a rugged barren land close to Lamayuru, one of the oldest and most remote monasteries in Ladakh.



                                                               Ladakh Peaceful  Rivers ©Solange Hando

Equally stunning but in lovely pastel colours, this is the confluence between the Indus and Zanskar rivers, near Ulektopo, not too far from Leh. In winter the frozen Zanskar attracts adventurous trekkers but in the brief summer the scenery is just magic, two rivers for the price of one...


                                                                Bodhnath in Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

My favourite temple in Nepal's capital, it is said to be the world's largest Buddhist stupa which regained its former glory after the 2015 earthquake. Dawn and dusk are special times when Tibetan refugees and Nepali alike walk seven times around the shrine, meeting friends and spinning prayer wheels, sometimes prostrating, as monks chant to the sound of long horns, cymbals and drums.


                                                                     Pokhara in Nepal ©Solange Hando

A brief flight or a road journey west of Kathmandu, this is the lakeside resort of Pokhara, altitude from only 900 metres or so but an ideal base for trekking in the Annapurna or just enjoying the hill top views, snow-capped mountains stretching 140 km, including the iconic Fishtail right in front of you. Browse around the resort, sail to the sacred island and see the sunrise from Sarangkot.


                                                                     Sunset on Everest ©Solange Hando

View from Kalapatar, the 'black rock' at 5644 metres, above Gorak Shep, the original Base Camp.
All dark except Everest, catching the last rays of the sun
Amazing