My Favourite Spots in the Himalayas

Brahmaputra in Tibet ©Solange Hando

With its source in the Himalayas Kailash range, this is the young Brahmaputra draped in Buddhist prayer flags for an auspicious journey from Tibet to India and Bangladesh, where it will join the Ganges in the Bay of Bengal. The name means 'son of Brahma', the Hindu god, unusual since most rivers refer to female deities. 

Bhutan Tiger's Lair ©Solange Hando

Close to Paro and a morning climb to over 3000 meters, this is the kingdom's most iconic landmark where, they say, Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress, to meditate in a cave before spreading Buddhism across the valley. Blue pines, rhododendrons, waterfalls and stunning views, it's a fabulous trek to the top or you can ride a pony to the cafeteria half-way up.

Punakha in Bhutan ©Solange Hando

At just 1250 meters, the former capital feels almost tropical and is the winter home of the monks from Thimphu. At the confluence of two rivers, the fortified monastery (dzong) is an important pilgrimage site, especially during festival time. But Punakha is also a great place to trek in gentle hills and discover Bhutan's pristine nature and traditional villages. Bears in the forest but they tend to keep away.

Ladakh in Northern India ©Solange Hando

In summer you can fly from Delhi to Leh, Ladakh's capital, but the 2-3 day road journey from Manali takes you through spectacular scenery and allows you to acclimatise to high altitude. Then heading west on the edge of disputed Kashmir, you reach this so-called 'moonscape', a rugged barren land close to Lamayuru, one of the oldest and most remote monasteries in Ladakh.

                                                               Ladakh Peaceful  Rivers ©Solange Hando

Equally stunning but in lovely pastel colours, this is the confluence between the Indus and Zanskar rivers, near Ulektopo, not too far from Leh. In winter the frozen Zanskar attracts adventurous trekkers but in the brief summer the scenery is just magic, two rivers for the price of one...

                                                                Bodhnath in Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

My favourite temple in Nepal's capital, it is said to be the world's largest Buddhist stupa which regained its former glory after the 2015 earthquake. Dawn and dusk are special times when Tibetan refugees and Nepali alike walk seven times around the shrine, meeting friends and spinning prayer wheels, sometimes prostrating, as monks chant to the sound of long horns, cymbals and drums.

                                                                     Pokhara in Nepal ©Solange Hando

A brief flight or a road journey west of Kathmandu, this is the lakeside resort of Pokhara, altitude from only 900 metres or so but an ideal base for trekking in the Annapurna or just enjoying the hill top views, snow-capped mountains stretching 140 km, including the iconic Fishtail right in front of you. Browse around the resort, sail to the sacred island and see the sunrise from Sarangkot.

                                                                     Sunset on Everest ©Solange Hando

View from Kalapatar, the 'black rock' at 5644 metres, above Gorak Shep, the original Base Camp.

All dark except Everest, catching the last rays of the sun

Amazing

 

Dwarika's Hotel, Welcome back to Kathmandu

 Swimming Pool in the Style of Ancient Royal Baths ©Solange Hando

After the earthquake, Dwarika's offered shelter to many of the victims but as the city slowly returns to normal life, visitors enjoy once again one of Kathmandu's most stunning hotels, a superb architectural gem unscathed by the disaster.

Named after its founder and still managed by his wife and daughter, it was the dream of a man who fell in love with Newari heritage, collecting carved windows, pillars and doors for his small family home. Later this was transformed into a boutique hotel to help finance the preservation of local culture and training of young craftsmen.

Dwarika's Traditional Entrance ©Solange Hando

Carved doors and pottery guardians set the tone as soon as you approach the entrance, leading to a lush oasis of plants, flowers and trees, just steps away from the dust and chaos of Kathmandu's streets,

Here nothing disturbs the peace but the sound of tumbling water and the twittering of birds, especially at dawn and dusk. There are offerings by the shrine and the fragrance of incense and marigolds lingers in the air.

Quiet Courtyard ©Solange Hando

The grounds are divided into attractive courtyards, never crowded and each one different from the next, here a place to sip Nepali tea, there somewhere to chill out under white drapes or gaze at warm red bricks glowing in the sunset festooned in persimmon and poinsettia trees.

Traditional Room and a Touch of Colour ©Solange Hando

Dwarika's has 86 individually designed rooms and suites, from the royal suite to heritage deluxe rooms, all spacious and furnished with artwork and organic linen. In-room amenities include everything you would expect from a 5 star hotel, including chocolates on your pillow.

Add a business centre, gym, Himalayan spa, and a boutique selling pashmina shawls, traditional paintings and more, what else could you want?

Food and drink? 

The choice is yours with international and Japanese restaurants and a Nepali venue offering up to 22 regional courses, plus a fusion bar for cocktails and snacks and a log fire on request. Alternatively you can dine outdoors under a star-studded sky.

A Spot of Shade ©Solange Hando

Then of course, Dwarika  can arrange your sightseeing tours but in such a lovely place, you may well be tempted to stay in the shade, until it's time to go to the airport, barely 10 minutes away.

Kathmandu Tibetan Boutique Hotel

View from the Terrace, Hotel Tibet International Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

In the Tibetan district of Kathmandu, Hotel Tibet International claims a convenient location, just a 10 minute drive from the airport and close to the fabulous heritage sites of Bodhnath and Pashupatinath.

Views from the rooftop terrace are superb, taking in much of the city, the iconic stupa of Bodhnath, the gilded roofs of Tibetan monasteries, the hills and by clear weather, usually in the early morning, the snowy tops of the Langtang range.

Authentic Tibetan Ambience ©Solange Hando

This luxury boutique hotel lives up to its name the minute you reach the entrance framed by guardian statues, prayer wheels, Buddhist flags, auspicious symbols and intricate wood carvings. Staff at reception greet you with warm Tibetan hospitality and service is efficient and discreet throughout.

Hotel Tibet International opened in autumn 2011, after a seven year restoration programme by skilled Tibetan craftsmen and artists. It has been a trip advisor award winner for the past three years.

A Touch of Luxury in Kathmandu, Hotel Tibet International, Bodhnath ©Solange Hando

The hotel has 68 luxury rooms and suites with all mod.con. including free WiFi and tea and coffee making facilities. Rooms are spacious, with beautiful Tibetan textiles contrasting with black and white photographs on the walls.

Suites have a relaxing living area and on the top executive floor, a private terrace with stupa views. Inside are carved wooden panels, delicate white coving, rugs on parquet floor, genuine antiques and traditional Tibetan thangkas.

Tea Garden at Hotel Tibet International ©Solange Hando

Beyond the courtyard and its majestic Himalayan pine, a quiet tea garden leads to the Shambala Spa where guests can book a Tibetan or trekkers' massage, wraps, scrubs and beauty treatments.

Other facilities include the Shangri-La Kitchen, offering Chinese and Tibetan dishes with a continental touch, based on seasonal produce. Breakfast is served on the top floor, in a dining room hung in Tibetan drapes or on the terrace overlooking the stupa.

Guests will also find a meditation room, a Tibetan boutique selling carpets, antiques and pashmina, a travel desk and currency exchange at reception.

Bodhnath Stupa, Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

This magnificent Buddhist stupa is just a two minute walk from the hotel and a convenient place to pick up a taxi to the city centre.

Pokhara, Lakeside Trek-O-Tel, Top Value for Money

Phewa Lake and Annapurna, Pokhara ©Solange Hando

Pokhara has it all, fabulous lake, gentle hills, snow-capped peaks and views to 'live' for, but where will you stay?

The bustling 'Lakeside' resort has more restaurants, lodges and hotels than you could try in a week or even two. but if you are looking for value, comfort and a waterside location, check out Trek-O-Tel.

Trek-O-Tel Garden Terrace ©Solange Hando

A short drive from the airport, this low rise hotel is at the quieter end of Pokhara yet it's an easy walk to the town centre and boats to the sacred island. There are plenty of small shops and eateries around but you may well be tempted to lounge on the hotel terrace where you can gaze at the peaceful emerald waters of the lake.

Superior Room at Trek-O-Tel

Grounds are small but pleasant, buildings hexagonal and rooms bright and spacious with all mod. con., toiletries, boiled water, air-conditioning and WiFi. Safes are located at reception and free of charge. Other facilities include bicycle hire and a travel desk. Rated 3 stars, friendly service throughout.

Room service is available, though 'not encouraged', but the restaurant serves a variety of dishes, most popular fish from the lake, in the dining room or on the garden terrace filled with bird song.

Trek-O-Tel, View from the Garden Terrace ©Solange Hando

But besides affordable rates, this hotel stands out for its convenient location, its views of the lake (across a quiet road) and its lush mini-garden bursting with marigolds, dahlias, potted plants and exotic fruit trees.

Auspicious Statues in Hotel Garden ©Solange Hando

If you prefer to avoid the crowds in Pokhara, Trek-O-Tel is for you, the perfect place to relax, watched by a golden Buddha and guardian spirits in the shade of a lychee tree.

Pokhara, Relax in 5 Star Waterfront Resort

 Swimming Pool by the Phewa Lake at Waterfront Resort, Pokhara ©Solange Hando

Located on the edge of town, framed by wooded hills and glistening water, the 5 star Waterfront Resort is a lovely oasis away from the hustle and bustle of the city. You can see the snowy peaks a short walk away along the lake.

 There is a rough stretch of road to get to the hotel but as soon as you head down the long driveway, it's all worth it. The pool beckons with cool bracing water, fabulous views of the hills and barely a sound as paragliders land in the meadow just yards away.

Five Star in Pokhara ©Solange Hando

This is a stylish hotel (member of KGH group) with a spacious reception com lounge and corridors graced by traditional Nepali carvings and black and white pictures of local life.

The Resort is perfectly oriented to make the most of the views, from the hill of Sarangkot to the southern ridge where the sun sets all pink and gold over the Peace Pagoda. The front of the hotel faces the lake but rooms at the back also have lake views beyond the paddies.

Deluxe Room ©Solange Hando

The hotel boasts 3 suites and 60 deluxe rooms, spacious with light walls and parquet floor contrasting with dark wood furniture.

All have free WiFi, tea and coffee making facilities, complimentary mineral water, and lake views from balconies and floor to ceiling windows.

Dining Room with Wood Carving and Decorative Fireplace ©Solange Hando

The Aquabird and Alfresco restaurants offer a choice of Nepali, Indian, Chinese and Western cuisine, as tasty as you would expect and served with a smile. You will also find a Noodle Bar and Illy Coffee Shop.

Other facilities at the Waterfront Resort include a business centre, airport transfer and a travel desk for sightseeing, outdoor activities or a ride up to Sarangkot for a memorable sunrise over the iconic Fishtail and Annapurna.

Looking across Phewa Lake towards the Waterfront Resort ©Solange Hando

But if you'd rather explore on your own, it's just a 15 minute walk along the lake into town or if you're feeling a little laid back, you can hop on the free hotel shuttle which goes back and forth at specific times until early evening.

Should you need a taxi to go out, you'll have to contact reception but on the way back, you will find plenty of them in town ready to test your bargaining skills,

Trekking in Nepal, do you really need a guide?

Sunset on Annapurna ©Solange Hando

Guide or no guide, mountains are fraught with danger even for seasoned trekkers.
We all remember what happened last autumn.
All the more reason then to put luck -and experience- on your side, chances may be slim if disaster strikes but better a glimmer of hope than none at all.

Great View, Keep Safe ©Solange Hando

Fortunately, major disasters are rare but what about altitude sickness or stomach problems? That's pretty frequent.
How will you cope on your own, or even with a friend? Help from locals? Sure, but in a poor country, that might cost you more than a guide would have done and be limited by lack of medical knowledge and language barrier.
What then?
Well, hire a guide and you can rest assured he will do his utmost to keep you safe and healthy for it is in his own interest as much as yours.

Discover Village Life ©Solange Hando

Anything else?
If you're into local culture, that's the best way to discover it and communicate with people along the trail. You may have the chance to rest in a farm house, enjoy butter tea and mountain potatoes straight from the embers, take photographs, meet a weaver or a schoolteacher, learn about local customs and daily routine.
Then of course, there's the natural world.
Did you see the honeycomb hanging from a branch, the blue poppy at your feet or the plant that will soothe your headache or that nasty insect bite?

Pokhara below the Annapurna ©Solange Hando

Fine, but how do you know you can trust your man?
Easy, don't do it on the cheap, go to a registered agency in Kathmandu or Pokhara, explain what you're looking for and they'll have someone to meet your needs, knowledgeable, trained in hygiene and first aid and speaking your language, or at least English.

View from Sarangkot, Nepal ©Solange Hando

Worthwhile?
After many visits, I'd say so...
And all for $20 a day (how much was the flight?) and just think what that would mean to your guide and his family...

Enjoy and I'll see you there...

Nepal Bare Essentials

Annapurna Range above Pokhara, Nepal ©Solange Hando

Nepal is as stunning as ever and after 14 visits, here are a few tips I'd like to share to help you along.

• On arrival at the airport, pick up a visa form (if needed) plus an an immigration form. You don't want to queue for 30 minutes then have to start all over again.
• Visa on arrival requires a passport-size photograph and cash payment (major currencies only). Costs from US$25 depending on length of stay.
• If your hold luggage appears to be missing, check the bags and cases piled up on the floor to free the belt for the next flight.
• If you need a taxi to get to your hotel, buy a voucher from the taxi desk in the arrival hall. The alternative is a long walk down to the road and you may end up paying more.

Kathmandu Valley ©Solange Hando

• Money matters, check your notes... Those of a similar colour are easily confused, 500 and 1000 rupees, also 20 and 5. Always check the European digits on the reverse.
• Safety matters, wait before you cross...Cross the road with a crowd whenever you can and once you start, don't step back. Motorbikes are allowed in pedestrian areas.
• Buy local, save money: a small bottle of imported water costs 115 R, a large bottle of local water 15R. The same for biscuits and other supermarket goods.
• Eating out? Check for extras, few menus include tax and service charge, that's an extra 23% (likewise for accommodation).
• Shopping? Bargain but remember this is a poor country. Start around half the asking price and be prepared to climb a little.

On the Everest Trail ©Solange Hando

• Trekking: if you can afford a flight, you can afford a guide. Use a registered agency, you will discover more, you will be safe and you will be providing employment.
• On the narrow trails, let yaks and buffaloes pass on the precipice side, they're used to it and tougher than you.
• Beware of altitude sickness, it can be a matter of life and death.

Durbar Square, Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

Enjoy and keep safe

Kathmandu Ambassador Garden Home, Traditional Boutique Hotel in Thamel

Kathmandu, the Ambassador Garden Home in Thamel ©Solange Hando

The name says it all: 100 years ago, this was the home of the Ambassador to China, great grandfather of the family who continue the hospitality tradition of their illustrious ancestor in  a beautifully converted building.

Awarded a Certificate of Excellence by Trip Advisor, this cosy boutique hotel is right at the heart of Thamel and with just 18 rooms, an unexpected retreat next door to the big and bustling Kathmandu Guest House.

The Living Room, Ambassador Garden Home ©Solange Hando

Everything here is warm and welcoming, a real home with stylish furniture, traditional Nepali brass and wood carvings, family photographs and artefacts and a shrine to the Ambassador, lovingly tended every day.

There are fresh fruit on the table, colourful sprays of orchids, magazines and free WiFi thoughout.

A Quiet Place to Relax ©Solange Hando

Guest rooms range from Superior to Deluxe, those located at the back quieter than those at the front (closer to Thamel's night life). All are comfortable and equipped with modern amenities, bathrobe, tea and coffee facilities, mineral water, minibar, safe and complimentary daily paper. All rooms have air conditioning and the hotel has its own generator, should the power fail.

The Ambassador Garden Home  is not top luxury but for character and atmosphere, as well as location, you simply can't beat it.

Kathmandu Ambassador Garden Home, the Garden ©Solange Hando

There's a small secluded garden at the back, with comfy chairs tucked in the greenery, a restaurant for Nepali and international fare, dozens more around if you feel like a change, and a terrace where breakfast is served al fresco.

Breakfast is cooked to order and brought to your table and if it's a bit chilly in the early morning, the outdoor heaters are turned on. What more could you ask for?

©Solange Hando

Enjoy!

See you there in October...

Kathmandu Monkey Temple, Swayambhunath

Swayambhunath in Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

Ready to climb 365 steps?

If you can't, don't worry, there's a road to the top but you'll miss out on the company, pilgrims, stall holders selling sun hats, silk scarves and flower garlands, and a monkey or two.

Up there, on a lofty hill top west of the city, the eyes of the Buddha look in all directions under a golden spire, showing the way to heaven. Myriad shrines and statues gleam around the white dome, said to represent the world, and along the ridge.This is one of the most sacred compounds in Kathmandu and a place where Buddhists and Hindus worship side by side. For Tibetans in Kathmandu, it is second only to Bodhnath.

Stone Carver in the Monkey Temple ©Solange Hando

Worshipping here takes many forms, praying, prostrating, lighting candles, offering garlands of marigolds or rice for the pigeons swooping over the complex from dawn to dusk.

But for local artists, creating religious objects is also a way to earn merits while for visitors, it's a brilliant opportunity to browse quality craft imbued with a special meaning.

Buddhist Flags along the Ridge ©Solange Hando

Many pilgrims make their way up the hill in the early morning while tourists follow later, keen to tick off another World Heritage site on the list.

Few of them however venture beyond the main stupa but if you walk a short distance along the ridge, you reach a lovely area where prayer flags flutter in the breeze and nuns leave their retreat now and then to come and chat in the sun. It's a great place to reflect and savour the peace but beware: this isn't called the Monkey Temple for nothing.

That's mine...©Solange Hando

Sweet tooth? 

This greedy chap got away with the candy floss but I managed to save the coke. And don't worry about the wrapper, he won't eat it...

 There's whole colony of them frolicking on the ridge, claiming the trees as their own and the offerings left by worshippers. No one minds for these are holy monkeys, cheeky rather then aggressive unless you threaten their young.

View of Kathmandu from Swayambhunath ©Solange Hando

So just hold on to your belongings when you admire the view... Up there, Kathmandu is at your feet, an all round panorama framed by the hills and by clear weather, the snowy peaks of the Langtang range.

It's as good a reason as any to visit the temple. You can walk it from Thamel in 30 minutes but on a hot day, that may prove too much if you intend to tackle the steps. Unlike the monkeys below, you won't get the chance to cool down...

Swayambhunath ©Solange Hando

What more could you ask for if you were a monkey?

Welcome to the Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel

Entrance to the Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel ©Solange Hando

The Kathmandu Guest House remains top of the list for newcomers to Nepal and returnees attracted by its convivial atmosphere. It's a place to share stories, exchange advice, find a trekking companion or, who knows, a long lasting romance.

Set well back from the road, in the busy district of Thamel, it's a peaceful oasis where sightseers and trekkers can rub shoulders with serious climbers and even celebrities.

Garden-facing Rooms, Kathmandu Guest House ©Solange Hando

In a restored Rana mansion, this first hotel in Thamel opened with just 13 rooms but now offers over 100, including quality accommodation in a newly-open annexe. Most pleasant and generally quieter are the garden-facing rooms.

The hotel prides itself  in a wide choice of rooms catering to every budget. An ultra basic single is just USD 2.00 a night while single tourist class rooms with private facilities and buffet breakfast range from USD 40.00 for standard to USD 160.00 for a luxury suite. Double rooms are available and an extra bed can be provided for a small charge. VAT and service are extra, 13% and 10% respectively. Look out for discounts which pop up from time to time.

Eating Al Fresco, Kathmandu Guest House ©Solange Hando

Restaurants include the Café Bahal (above) where international fare and Nepali specialities are served in the courtyard and the new Inner Sanctum offering a varied menu and candle-lit dinners.The Raksi Bar is for chilled drinks and cocktails while the Café Pomelo serves coffee and cool drinks in the garden.

Among other amenities, you'll find a small shopping arcade for jewellery, souvenirs and books,a  beauty parlour, ATM,  free internet and WiFi zones plus in-room WiFi connection.

  Guest House Garden ©Solange Hando

But the guest house greatest asset is its lovely garden, tucked away from the dusty lanes. There are palms and manicured lawns, potted plants, pomelo hanging from the trees and roses, chrysanths and dahlias in all shades and colours.

It's the perfect place to unwind and sip Nepali tea under the trees. They say that many articles and books have been written in this garden and it remains one of the most delightful escapes in busy Thamel. 

However, if you really want to get away from it all and enjoy spectacular views, you could stay in the hill top monastery of Kopan in the Bodhnath district.