My Favourite Spots in the Himalayas

Brahmaputra in Tibet ©Solange Hando

With its source in the Himalayas Kailash range, this is the young Brahmaputra draped in Buddhist prayer flags for an auspicious journey from Tibet to India and Bangladesh, where it will join the Ganges in the Bay of Bengal. The name means 'son of Brahma', the Hindu god, unusual since most rivers refer to female deities. 

Bhutan Tiger's Lair ©Solange Hando

Close to Paro and a morning climb to over 3000 meters, this is the kingdom's most iconic landmark where, they say, Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress, to meditate in a cave before spreading Buddhism across the valley. Blue pines, rhododendrons, waterfalls and stunning views, it's a fabulous trek to the top or you can ride a pony to the cafeteria half-way up.

Punakha in Bhutan ©Solange Hando

At just 1250 meters, the former capital feels almost tropical and is the winter home of the monks from Thimphu. At the confluence of two rivers, the fortified monastery (dzong) is an important pilgrimage site, especially during festival time. But Punakha is also a great place to trek in gentle hills and discover Bhutan's pristine nature and traditional villages. Bears in the forest but they tend to keep away.

Ladakh in Northern India ©Solange Hando

In summer you can fly from Delhi to Leh, Ladakh's capital, but the 2-3 day road journey from Manali takes you through spectacular scenery and allows you to acclimatise to high altitude. Then heading west on the edge of disputed Kashmir, you reach this so-called 'moonscape', a rugged barren land close to Lamayuru, one of the oldest and most remote monasteries in Ladakh.

                                                               Ladakh Peaceful  Rivers ©Solange Hando

Equally stunning but in lovely pastel colours, this is the confluence between the Indus and Zanskar rivers, near Ulektopo, not too far from Leh. In winter the frozen Zanskar attracts adventurous trekkers but in the brief summer the scenery is just magic, two rivers for the price of one...

                                                                Bodhnath in Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

My favourite temple in Nepal's capital, it is said to be the world's largest Buddhist stupa which regained its former glory after the 2015 earthquake. Dawn and dusk are special times when Tibetan refugees and Nepali alike walk seven times around the shrine, meeting friends and spinning prayer wheels, sometimes prostrating, as monks chant to the sound of long horns, cymbals and drums.

                                                                     Pokhara in Nepal ©Solange Hando

A brief flight or a road journey west of Kathmandu, this is the lakeside resort of Pokhara, altitude from only 900 metres or so but an ideal base for trekking in the Annapurna or just enjoying the hill top views, snow-capped mountains stretching 140 km, including the iconic Fishtail right in front of you. Browse around the resort, sail to the sacred island and see the sunrise from Sarangkot.

                                                                     Sunset on Everest ©Solange Hando

View from Kalapatar, the 'black rock' at 5644 metres, above Gorak Shep, the original Base Camp.

All dark except Everest, catching the last rays of the sun

Amazing

 

Travel Photos? So much to Remember

India ©Solange Hando

This is Khardung La in Ladakh, which claims to be the highest road pass in the world. Set on an old trade route, it is the gateway to the Nubra Valley but closed in winter.

You need a special permit to drive up the steep meandering road with precipitous drops, especially dramatic on single lane sections. Not much traffic up there but the odd overloaded bus or local authorities who always have the right of way. 

Namibia ©Solange Hando

South of Namibia's capital, Windhoek, that was an easy stop but truly exciting as you step out on the southernmost latitude where you can see the sun directly overhead. It wasn't quite the summer solstice just yet but knowing that the Capricorn stretches 36788 kms around the earth was impressive.

Eswatini ©Solange Hando

This is in Eswatini, the former Swaziland, one of Africa's smallest countries, bordered by Mozambique and South Africa. This was the final day of the annual Reeds Festival where after renewing the royal enclosure, women from across the country perform for the king.

'They all dance for the king,' said my friend, 'then by the end of the day he will choose his next wife.'

'Would you like to join?'

                                                               Canada ©Solange Hando

This is the amazing Athabasca glacier spreading out from the Columbia, the largest icefield in the Rockies. You can drive up there from Jasper or Lake Louise then enjoy a dizzying skywalk above the gorge, followed by a ride on the giant Ice Explorer. Then you can walk a few steps on the glacier, listening to rumbling avalanches and creaking crevasses as snowy peaks tower above you, at over 3000 metres.

                                                                     Reunion Island ©Solange Hando

Set in the Indian Ocean, this is a French Island between Madagascar and Mauritius, just 63 by 45 kms but one of the most active hotspots on earth.

This was my first trip in a microlight, circling and dipping around craters, ravines and the mighty Furnace Peak which erupts several times a year.  I was terrified but I loved it. Awesome...

                                                                       Madagascar ©Solange Hando

Four hours from Antananarivo, the capital, this is Lemur Island, on the edge of the Andasibe National Park. It's a refuge for wounded or endangered lemurs, including the ring-tailed above who decided to perch on my head. Approach the grasslands in a canoe and they venture right to the edge, exploring any stranger with their soft padded feet. 

                                                                     Himalayas ©Solange Hando

I love the Himalayas and this is taken on the fabulous flight from Kathmandu to Paro in Bhutan, the closest international airport to the kingdom's capital, Thimphu.

See the pyramid summit of Everest, 8849 metres, at the back, rising above the Nuptse wall to the left and the Lothse Peak to the right.

If you ever fly this route, make sure you get a seat on the left-hand site on the way to Paro.

 

2020, New Decade, New Travel, Want Ideas?

India ©Solange Hando

Adventure

This is Ladakh, India with a difference, a high altitude desert with challenging treks ( Zanskar-Indus confluence above) but you'll find adventure all the way. Explore 'moonland' or drive to Khardung La, the world's highest road pass.

You can fly to the capital  but most dramatic is the legendary road from Manali to Leh.

* Suggested alternative: trek to Everest Base Camp...

Namibia ©Solange Hando

Wildlife

Amazing throughout this vast country, the first in the world to include conservation in its constitution.

Most exciting is the Etosha National Park up in the north. Best time to visit is near the end of the dry season when animals gather around the water holes for survival and scarce vegetation allows superb sightings.

* Or for wildlife of another kind, head for environment-friendly Costa Rica.

Brazil ©Solange Hando

City with a View

You can't beat Rio de Janeiro for scenery, go up Corcovado on the cog railway or take the cable cars up the Sugar Loaf jutting out on a peninsula (above). Then, enjoy the beach, the botanical gardens, the nightlife and bustling streets but if you are there for the carnival, that's definitely something you will never forget.

* My other favourite: Bangkok for waterways, markets and temples.

Canada ©Solange Hando

Slow Travel

Take the train from Toronto to Vancouver and don't worry about time. Goods trains always have priority so you can relax and enjoy the scenery. Dining car with gourmet meals, glass-domed observation car and if you fancy a break on your four night journey, you can book a hotel for a couple of nights in Winnipeg and Jasper.

*Alternative: Qinghai to Lhasa on the world's highest railway. 

South America ©Solange Hando

Iguazu Falls

Out in the jungle these are my top waterfalls stretching on the Argentina-Brazil border. Argentina has more falls and you have to walk across marshland to see the Devil's Throat but the most extensive panorama is from the Brazil side with its famous Santa Maria' fall  and a long 'jetty' for a close up look, if you don't mind getting wet.

* Or see the Victoria Falls, in  Zambia or Zimbabwe (the quieter side).

Bhutan ©Solange Hando

Nature and Culture

Up in the Himalaya, this is my own Shangri La, a remote kingdom where 'gross national happiness' is enshrined in the constitution. The Buddhist culture ensures respect for all living things, from people to the pristine natural world. The image shows you Punakah 'dzong', one of the traditional monasteries, framed by mountains at the confluence of two rivers.
* Or why not go to Japan? Superb mountainous interior and ancient traditions.

Spice Village Hill Resort in Kerala

Cottage in Spice Village ©Solange Hando

Close to spice plantations and the Periyar National Park, Spice Village is a CGH Earth resort, 'clean, green, healthy' Located on the edge of Kumily village, it's in the Thekkady district of the Kerala's Western Ghats.

Accommodation is in traditional bungalows scattered in the greenery, built with local materials and thatched with elephant grass. It's an oasis of peace, beautifully quiet at night.

Guest Room, Spice Village ©Solange Hando

Rooms are spacious and clean and at over 700 metres, pleasantly cool so no need for air conditioning. Furniture is made of recycled pine wood and floors are tiled, with coir mats as needed.

It may look a little spartan but with hot water, soft lighting and all the usual amenities, everything you might need is at hand.

Lawns and Trees in Spice Village ©Solange Hando

There's a lovely garden to relax in the shade, enjoy your lunch or perhaps a cool drink or herbal tea. Friendly staff make you feel most welcome and although you may well be tempted by the colourful stalls along the lanes, take time to unwind at least for a while in your little haven.

Other facilities include a Green Leaf Ayurveda Centre, yoga and meditation, badminton, tennis and activities such as trekking, bamboo rafting or visiting a spice plantation.

Tamarind Restaurant at Spice Village ©Solange Hando

Overlooking the swimming pool is Tamarind, the main restaurant serving regional and international fare. Or you could try the '50 mile Diet Restaurant' which guarantees that all ingredients are produced within a 50 mile radius. There's is also a pleasant Woodhouse Bar where you can meet and chat with your friends. 

Spice Village Organic Garden ©Solange Hando

Then wander up the slope and right at the top, beyond the last cottages, you will discover the resort organic garden where fruit, vegetables, lettuce, spices and more are grown for healthy and tasty dishes. 

Besides sheer eating pleasure, it's good to know that so many local people have found employment in this caring Spice Village  hotel, grounds and garden.

The Periyar National Park ©Solange Hando 

Kerala in South India

Kochi Fishing Nets ©Solange Hando

Formerly known as Cochin, this is the 'Queen of the Arabian Sea', a fascinating city set on a peninsula and islands around a vast natural harbour.

The old district has a rich history and there's a lovely promenade along the waterfront lined with stalls and seafood restaurants, and a beach, best at the far end. But most iconic are the Chinese fishing nets, each one pulled in and out of the water every 15 minutes or so.

Kerala Backwaters ©Solange Hando

Then just inland are the Kerala backwaters, the highlight of any trip to southern India. There, for a few hours or overnight, you can explore the waterways as you sail across canals, lagoons and lakes in your traditional bamboo-covered boat. 

Banks are beautifully lush and green and it's a great place to see the local life as you pass a village or two or a Hindu temple glowing in the sun. The main waterways and big Lake Vembanad may bustle with tourists and local craft but there are some amazingly quiet areas, tucked in the greenery away from it all. 

Classical Kerala ©Solange Hando

Traditional culture is alive and well, not just for visitors but for anyone in Kerala, it's is a matter of pride and identity. Above is a main character in a Khatakali performance where after the opening rituals, a centuries-old story is performed, expressing every emotion through eye and face movements.

Heavy make up and large colourful costumes add to the drama, punctuated with the relentless beating of a drum. 

Up in the Western Ghats ©Solange Hando

A short drive east leads you to the hills of the Western Ghats, an entirely different world but still part of Kerala.The Periyar Wildlife sanctuary has tree top look-outs where you might spot elephants or a lone tiger, if you are really lucky, and myriad birds if you sail on the lake where the Mulla and Periya rivers meet.

Up there, at over 700 metres the nearest village is Kumily set among spice plantations, including cardamom, the most important, which gives its name to the nearby hills.

Tea Plantations in Western Ghats ©Solange Hando

The ride from the coast to the hills is spectacular, winding past tall rubber trees, coffee bushes, spice gardens and extensive tea plantations, rolling emerald green across the slopes. Best overall views are from the pilgrimage site of Pattumala on St Francis Mount.

Sunset on the Arabian Sea, Kochi Beach ©Solange Hando

  

India Tamil Nadu, Radisson Blu Resort, Mamallapuram near Chennai

Radisson Blu Resort in Temple Bay, Mamallapuram ©Solange Hando

Just south of Chennai, this beautiful resort is an ideal base to explore the world heritage site of Mamallapuram. Culture aside, it is right by the beach and claims one of the longest swimming pools in India, meandering like a river for 220 metres. Amazing...

Luxury Villa in Superb Grounds ©Solange Hando

The hotel has 144 rooms in chalets and villas, with pool, garden or seaviews. Enjoy 44 acres of landscaped ground, highly colourful with tropical blooms and trees.

Standard Room at Radisson Blu ©Solange Hando

Rooms are spacious and bright with a pleasant seating area, a cool tiled floor and four star facilities, including Wifi, tea /coffee and mineral water. Balconies and patios invite guests to relax and enjoy the views.

Wine and exotic cocktails are available in the bars then you can feast on seafood, grilled steaks and a whole range of international fare. Deluxe buffet at the weekend.

Sand Castle Competition ©Solange Hando

Radisson Blu has its own private beach close to the Shore Temple on the Unesco site. Activities include beach volleyball and boat rides, as well as cycling, basketball, table tennis, archery and 9-hole mini-golf.

Spas specialise in tailored rituals with herbs and exotic oils, as well as Ayurvedic massage and facials.

 Statues in Radisson Blu ©Solange Hando

These guardians welcome you near the entrance, reflecting the ancient heritage of Tamil Nadu, close to some of the top cultural sites in India.

As well as the Mamallapuram monuments, dating back to the 7th-8th centuries, guests can enjoy day trips to Kanchipuram, Pondicherry and of course Chennai.

 Infinity Pool, Radisson Blu ©Solange Hando

Just above the private beach, this quiet infinity pool offers superb views of the Bay of Bengal. 

Kerala Coconut Lagoon Resort

Coconut Lagoon Resort in Kerala ©Solange Hando

This lovely resort is located in Kumarakom, in the Kerala backwaters, just over 80 km from Cochin airport. It looks out to Wembanad, the largest lake in Kerala, and is only accessed by water.

 Relax and Enjoy ©Solange Hando

Spread out over lush extensive grounds, accommodation ranges from heritage bungalows to mansions and lakeside villas with private pools.

Style and material are traditional and remnants of old buildings have been incorporated.

What is this? ©Solange Hando

My own bathroom, a winner in my view, with a banana tree growing from the ground and if you look up top left, no roof. Shower and see the stars...

Rooms are spacious and comfortable with all amenities you would expect.

Coconut Lagoon in Kerala Backwaters ©Solange Hando

Lots of greenery, meandering waterways wherever you look, footbridges and quiet corners, this is the perfect place to wind down or try activities on offer, bird or butterfly watching, Ayurveda rituals, yoga, canoe rides or village walk.

Or you could meditate in the sacred grove or sample the floating tea-shop.

.Peaceful setting ©Solange Hando

Coconut Lagoon is an eco-friendly resort and whatever your accommodation, it will respect the CGH Earth label, meaning 'clean, green, healthy'.

Staff are from nearby villages and restaurants will serve excellent local food, from seafood and catch of the day to traditional Kerala curry and much more

Sunset on Wembanad Lake from Coconut Lagoon ©Solange Hando

Ashok Country Resort, Delhi Airport Hotel

Ashok Country Resort near Delhi Airport ©Solange Hando

This family run eco-friendly resort is set in a quiet location, just 4 km from Indira Ghandi International Airport and with easy access to the city centre.

It's a great place to relax before or after a flight, so conveniently located, but a world away from the hustle and bustle of Delhi.

Delhi Airport Hotel ©Solange Hando

Blending traditional elegance and modern facilities, this low rise building looks out to trees and lawns. Club or Luxury Premium, guest rooms are spacious and enjoy plenty of natural light.

Original art work and warm colours add a cosy feeling. TV, WiFi, air conditioning and tea and coffee making facilities are standard.

Ashok Country Resort ©Solange Hando

But the Ashok resort greatest asset are the lush grounds laced with mature palms, exotic flowers and manicured lawns leading to a small but welcoming swimming pool.

There is plenty of seating in the sun or in the shade and you can just while away the time reading your favourite book, watching the peacocks parading around or listening to the birds twittering in the trees.

Quiet Retreat at Ashok Country Resort ©Solange Hando

You can enjoy teas from all over India in the plush lounge bar and dine in style at the Picadilly where the menu is based on seasonal produce from the Ashok's organic farm (visits can be arranged).

The Mimasa Spa offers refreshing and energising rituals, including Ayurveda and scrubs and wraps using local ingredients, such as forest honey or sandalwood. Other facilities include free parking, travel desk, airport transfers and a small stylish boutique for last minute shopping.

Ladakh, the Indus Valley beyond Leh

Ladakh, Confluence of the Zanskar and Indus Rivers ©Solange Hando

Unlike much of India, Ladakh is the perfect place to visit in the summer months when skies are blue and temperatures pleasant. The only thing to remember is the altitude but if you come on the high road  from Manali rather than fly, you'll enjoy a wonderful drive and minimise the risks.

Leh may keep you spellbound but my favourite place is the Indus valley beyond the capital, past the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers. Few visitors venture that far but the colours alone are well worth the trip, land and water glistening like gems in the clear mountain air. 

Seated Buddha in Likir ©Solange Hando

Later, you reach the impressive Likir monastery perched on a hillock above the barley fields. There are myriad shrines and temples filled with holy images and paintings and up on the roof, a 25 metre high seated Buddha framed by the snowy peaks of the Indian Himalaya.

It's an inspiring place where the chanting of monks fills the air with vibes as farmers bring in the harvest while old folks sit in the shade, twirling prayer beads.

Chortens in Lamayuru ©Solange Hando

Those who come here often take a break in Ulektopo, a remote tented camp set among the apple trees, before heading to Lamayuru where tucked into the barren hills, the monastery seems to mark the end of the land.

A row of chortens adds a little colour to this deserted landscape where flat-roofed houses just melt into the earth and the only sign of life may be a monk or a black hairy yak.

Moonland in Ladakh ©Solange Hando

This is the edge of the 'moonland', an eerie mountainscape of eroded clay and sand frothing out of the barren earth like a giant cappucino. No human habitation as far as you can see, just jagged rocks and an empty road far below heading back towards more hospitable lands along the Indus.

Oasis West of Leh ©Solange Hando

For down there in the valley framed by high peaks, marigolds bloom in the monastery and poplars and willows meander across the arid land, just one of many oases in Ladakh blessed by the Indus and the generous snowmelt from the Himalaya.