Latin America, My Favourite Spots

Iguazu Falls, Brazil ©Solange Hando

My top favourite, on the border between Argentina (80% of the falls) and Brazil (best views of them all.) Notice the walkway (top right) where you can get amazingly close beyond the rainbow and get soaking wet, plastic gear provided.

The falls (over 200 of them) stretch 2.7km and drop 82 metres in places. Tourists carefully monitored so you really feel at the heart of it all, overwhelmed by sound and sight. 

La Boca, Buenos Aires ©Solange Hando

Just one of 48 'barrio' in the Argentinian capital, this neighbourhood is all traditional buildings and cobbled lanes close to the old harbour and 21st century tower blocks.

Enjoy Italian tavernas and Spanish Tango on the streets  -join in if you dare- and see artists, markets and humble dwellings, bright cheerful colours, all along the way.

Lake District, Chile ©Solange Hando

South of the capital Santiago, a spectacular flight takes you over the snow-capped mountains to the Andes Lake District shared between Chile and Argentina. Above is the lovely Peulla in Chile, so quiet and pristine.

On the Argentinian side, I enjoyed the attractive resort of Bariloche with its luminous lake, volcanoes, forests and spectacular views, hike in summer, ski in winter.

Costa Rica, Making Friends ©Solange Hando

Well, I'd need a whole album to show you Costa Rica -wild life and volcanoes included- but here's just one happy friend, helping me to celebrate my birthday.

Let's jus say that that this is an amazing country, top rated for Human Development and Conservation, between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. Back in 1949, it abolished its army to spend money on health care, education and preserving the natural world. A lesson for us all?

 

Peru, Lake Titicaca ©Solange Hando

So much to see in Peru, I especially loved Cusco and Machu Picchu, but meeting the Uros Indians on Lake Titicaca is my most endearing memory.

Long ago, they set up home on the lake, harvesting reeds to build floating islands where enemies could not reach them. It's a continuous process even today but the Uros are doing well with fishing, local crafts and even technology. Shared with Bolivia, Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world, 3810 metres.

Mexico, Chichen Itza ©Solange Hando

In the Yucatan peninsula, this was the largest city built by the Mayas and Kukulcan (above) is the most spectacular monument. The 30 metre high stepped pyramid takes its name from a snake god, said to cast its 'shadow' across the steps during the spring and autumn equinox.

It's a top attraction, accessible from coastal resorts, but go early and you can have it all to yourself as you ponder on this powerful yet cruel civilisation.

Guatemala, Sunset on Lake Atitlan ©Solange Hando

Up in the highlands of Sierra Madre, Atitlan is the deepest lake in Central America (max. 340 metres). Set in a vast caldera in the National Park, it is 18 km long and fringed by three 'new' volcanoes, at least one of them still active.

There are traditional Maya villages in the neighbourhood but no road around the lake so it is often considered one of the most beautiful in the world

Cuba ©Solange Hando

The largest island in the Caribbean

Dancing, music, tradition, colour

What more could you want?

A cigar?

Rolled on a lady's thigh, of course

  

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Mexico San Cristobal de las Casas, Hotel Casavieja

San Cristobal de las Casas ©Solange Hando

In the highlands of Mexico south of the Yucatan peninsula, San Cristobal de las Casas is an attractive prosperous town with an impressive cathedral, stylish colonial buildings and quiet lanes, such as this one, where character hotels are tucked away behind traditional colourful façades.

Casavieja, Cool Arcade in Inner Courtyard ©Solange Hando

One would never guess what hides beyond the plain entrance of Casavieja, the 18th century building converted into a boutique hotel with rooms to suit a range of budgets. Character aside, the hotel top attraction is its central location in a quiet lane, just five minutes walk from the cathedral and downtown pedestrian area.

Standard Room in Casavieja ©Solange Hando

Guests can choose from 4 suites and 36 rooms furnished in colonial style with a few artefacts from the Chiapas region. Room size and facilities range from basic to luxurious according to price. 

Accommodation is on two levels around the inner courtyard. Heaters are provided in the rooms and free coffee is available in the lobby.

Quiet Corner in Casavieja ©Solange Hando

Brightened up with flowers and plants, reading areas and cosy corners are scattered around the building so guests can relax, meet friends and enjoy quiet times away from the hustle and bustle of downtown.

It's a little haven and even conference guests appreciate the peace.

Cool escape in the Courtyard, Casavieja ©Solange Hando

The courtyard is definitely a bonus filled with flowers and greenery, decorative features and convivial seating in the shade. Warm colours befit the traditional character of the hotel.

The Casavieja has a well-stocked wine cellar and two restaurants serving Spanish and Chiapas specialities.

Casavieja, Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico ©Solange Hando

San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico

San Cristobal de las Casas, Cathedral ©Solange Hando

In the central highlands of southern Mexico, this stunning cathedral in San Cristobal de las Casas draws locals and visitors alike from morning to night. With its warm colours and slender minaret-like turrets, it's the most striking legacy of colonial times in the ancient capital of the Chiapas state.

Weaving in Chiapas State ©Solange Hando

But alongside the Catholic faith, the indigenous culture is alive and well and the tourist market outside Santo Domingo's church is a great place to bargain for local craft. Chiapas is known for hand-made textiles -head for the villages to see weavers at work-, amber and jade but you will also find the usual assortment of tourist trinkets from hats and gloves to dolls or water bottles.

Southern Mexico Central Highlands ©Solange Hando

At 2,200 metres, Cristobal de las Casas nestles in a valley framed by pine-covered hills where streams,waterfalls and springs babble in fragrant greenery. Up in the mountains indigenous communities often live in isolation, following their own set of rules and even laws. 

Chiapas may be part of Mexico but as proved by its turbulent past and frequent unrest, the descendants of the Maya are their own boss and do not appreciate any kind of interference.

Market Day in San Juan Chamula ©Solange Hando

Up in the hills, roughly 10 km from San Critobal de las Casas,  the weekly market of San Juan Chamula attracts a fair number of visitors keen to enjoy the bright local colour and have a look in the unique temple-church. There, families who gather to pray sit around candles on a floor covered in pine needles; no pews or chairs, only indigenous gods and Catholic saints jostling side by side along the aisles.

As long as you are prepared to respect the rules, it is well worth a visit. No photos in the church or market except from one specific spot on the square. Don't try it on, you will be caught, shamed in public and unless your guide has untold patience and connections, you can say goodbye to your camera. Same applies to most of the of nearby villages.

Colonial Style, San Cristobal de las Casas ©Solange Hando

Back in town, the atmosphere is far more relaxed as you wander past elegant villas and cool arcades or head down the pedestrian street with its enticing restaurants and café-terrace, its food vendors and balloon sellers, giggling children and Maya women who do not shy away as long as you're prepared to bargain and buy.

On the town square, elders and weary-eyed tourists doze under the trees while the hypnotic notes of a traditional xylophone -played by three pairs of hands- drift in the evening air.

  San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico ©Solange Hando

Meanwhile in the back lanes just minutes away, lovely character hotels hide among the colourful local dwellings which line the paved alleyways, heading straight as arrows towards the wooded highlands. 

Cristobal may be a city these days but it is still called 'the most magical village' and in the fresh mountain air, it truly feels like it.

Mexico, Cancun and Yucatan Highlights

Caribbean Beach in Cancun, Mexico ©Solange Hando

Tucked in the north-east corner of the Yucatan peninsula, Cancun enjoys a privileged location, Caribbean Sea on one side. lagoon on the other, and between them a thin strip of land where luxury hotels line pristine white sands sprinkled with swaying palms.

There are no private beaches in Mexico but many hotels have secured private access to the beach, so if you want to mix with the locals, head downtown, browse casual stalls and gleaming stores and enjoy some true Mexican fare.

Chichen Itza near Cancun ©Solange Hando

If you're looking for just one day trip from Cancun and a bit of culture, this is it, the amazing Maya and Toltec site of Chichen Itza set inland, half-way between the east and west coasts. The Kukulcan pyramid (above) is the most impressive monument but dozens more are scattered around from game courts, temples and shrines to the sacred well where the 'lucky' Mayas were sacrificed.

There is much talk of high priests and gods, sacred jaguars and snakes but it's pretty safe to wander around and bargain for silver trinkets, Maya masks  or colourful hammocks. Stalls are kept to the main alleyway and although Chichen Itza is a hugely popular site, it is so extensive it rarely feels crowded.

Tulum South of Cancun ©Solange Hando

While Chichen Itza is undoubtedly the most impressive site, Tulum has the best of both worlds: beach and ancient ruins. An easy drive from Cancun along the east coast, you discover the final retreat of the Mayas and the Toltecs, their successors, as they fled internal wars.

There are ruins to explore, including a temple to the God of the Wind but be prepared to share the site with beach lovers, cruise ship visitors and oversized iguanas.

Seafront Restaurants in Campeche, Yucatan ©Solange Hando

The Yucatan has some lovely resorts beyond Cancun such as this one, Campeche, nestling in the Gulf of Mexico with broad beach and quiet coves, thatched restaurants and a 5km long promenade dotted here and there with striking works of modern art.

The town has an attractive historic centre with pristine streets festooned in wrought iron balconies, flower pots and cottages in pastel colours from sky blue and mint green to yellow or ochre red. There are musical fountains and stylish colonial buildings beautifully lit up after dark.

Pelicans on the West Coast ©Solange Hando

Pelicans are frequent visitors along the coast, fabulous to watch as they dive from great heights, as fast as arrows, vanish underwater then emerge triumphant before rejoining the flock. See them, hear them and feel the vibes as they swoop around inches from your head.

Inland, look out for coati, members of the raccoon family, highly inquisitive, greedy and never taking 'no' for an answer. Snakes are rarely seen, even though Cancun means 'snakes nest'. That was

long before the hotels laid their claims to the land.

Golden Sunset in Cancun ©Solange Hando

Sunset over the lagoon, sunrise over the sea, you can't beat the amazing Cancun sky.

Mexico, Palenque, Nututun Hotel by the Chacamax River

Nututun Hotel, Palenque ©Solange Hando

On the edge of the jungle, Nututun claims a quiet riverside location, just a five minute drive from Palenque, one of the great archaeological sites in Mexico. After a hot day exploring the Maya ruins, the Nututun pool complete with jacuzzi is sure to be a welcome sight.

History aside, Nututun is just an hour away from the beautiful Agua Azul  waterfalls, one of the most scenic spots in the Mexican state of Chiapas.

Reception Area, Nututun ©Solange Hando

The thatched open-sided reception doubles up as lounge area close to the river, with accommodation on one side and on the other, the Don Manuel restaurant with balcony overlooking the water.

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Besides the swimming pool and bar, Nututun amenities include a spa for beauty treatments, massage, wrap and Aztec sauna. There's also a gift shop and camping area.

Lush Garden, Nututun near Palenque ©Solange Hando

Hotel accommodation is in bungalows and low rise buildings scattered in spacious grounds among palms, hedges and lawns.

It's only a few steps to the river where guests can kayak or swim. There, away from it all, little disturbs the peace but the occasional call of howler monkeys or crickets after dark.

Twin Room at the Nututun ©Solange Hando

The Nututun hotel has 74 rooms from standard (up to 4 guests) to suites, furnished in traditional style with warm bedding and cool walls. Rooms are comfortable and spacious with all modern amenities, including telephone and TV, while suites also have a minibar, large shower room and bath tub.

Rooms have garden or pool view, some with private terrace. Free WiFi is available in public areas.

Dawn on the Chacamax River ©Solange Hando

At breakfast time, early  guests can watch the sun rise all pink and gold over the water as myriad tropical birds welcome the new day.

Agua Azul Waterfall, Mexico near Palenque

Agua Azul near Palenque, Mexico ©Solange Hando

Barely an hour from the Maya ruins of Palenque, Agua Azul is one of the most stunning waterfalls in the Chiapas State of Mexico, south of the Yucatan peninsula.

It may not compare with Victoria or Iguazu  but at the confluence of several streams, it's an impressive series of cataracts and rapids which you can explore along a steep 7 km trail with rest and picnic spots along the way.

Rainforest and Rocks ©Solange Hando

On a site managed by the local community within the National Park, the waterfall looks almost surreal, all shades of turquoise and blue framed by lush green jungle.

The highest drop is just six metres but there are cliffs and shallow canyons, islands and here and there trees and rocks eerily coated in solidified limestone.

Agua Azul, Meeting of the Waters, Mexico ©Solange Hando

When the light travels through these mineral rich waters, all the colours are absorbed except blue (azul) which then bounces back from the river bed to the surface.

Every cascade is different but to see the colours at their best, it's best to avoid the rainy season, around June to October, when the water is often murky.

Blue, White, Green and Gold at Agua Azul©Solange Hando

The falls attract a fair number of visitors but few venture far from the first cascades and  market stalls so birdwatchers and trekkers are sure find a quiet place to relax and enjoy the scenery.

Swimming and rafting are allowed in designated areas though even there, one should beware of currents and underwater rocks or trees. Fatalities have occurred and the most treacherous stretch goes by the ominous name of 'liquidiser'. 

Agua Azul Favourite Spot ©Solange Hando

But for those who prefer to take it easy, nothing beats the obligatory photo stop by Agua Azul's favourite cascade.