Thimphu, Bhutan's Capital

Thimphu, Bhutan's Capital ©Solange Hando

Nestling in the hills at over 2000 metres, Thimphu is a capital like no other. No traffic lights, no airport, the former were promptly removed by popular demand, the second just wouldn't fit into this hemmed-in valley, Visitors land in Paro, 54 km away.

Thimphu replaced Punakha as capital in the mid-1900s and the population has now reached around 70,000 with ongoing developments striving to accommodate rural migrants . But at the heart of the Himalaya, Thimphu still has the 'wow' factor as an endearing example of traditional Bhutanese values.  

Tashichho Dzong in Thimphu

On the bank of the Thimphu River, all red roofs and gilded pinnacles, the 'fortress of glorious religion' is the most important building, a civic and religious centre all in one. Renovated and extended by the 3rd King, it's the summer residence of the monk's body and still retains some of the earlier structures, notably the central tower and temples.

Surrounded by roses and lawns, the dzong is just steps away from the Royal Cottage, home of the current king, and faces the National Assembly across the river. Major events have included the 2008 Coronation and the annual tsechu festivals.

Tsechu Festival in Thimphu Dzong ©Solange Hando

For any visitor, a festival is the highlight of the trip. For the Bhutanese, it's a chance to earn merits, meet family and friends and have a good time as you watch lay and religious dancers, listen to ancient tales and laugh at the antics of medieval-style jesters.

Everyone wears their finest traditional clothes and from the crowds tightly packed in the courtyard to  the masked dancers twirling on the flagstones, it's a dizzying kaleidoscope of colours when the deep chanting of monks mingling with drums, horns and bells sends shivers down your spine.

Clocktower Square in Thimphu ©Solange Hando

The town may have grown but as capitals go, it's still modest, relatively quiet and lined with traditional buildings. Even the new hotels follow suit whether it's the shape of the roof, the Buddhist symbols painted on the walls or carvings along the eaves or around doors and windows.

There are fine bakeries and restaurants, small shops and emporiums brimming with arts and crafts, including textiles, jewellery, carvings, paintings and other religious items.

Institute of 13 Arts and Crafts in Thimphu ©Solange Hando

Arts and crafts are important in Bhutan since creating beautiful things is akin to an act of worship, a way of showing appreciation for the gifts of nature. The 13 arts and crafts were defined by the 17th century Shabdrung who unified the country and talented youngsters can further their training in specialised institutes, one in East Bhutan and other in Thimphu.

The Golden Buddha ©Solange Hando

But wherever you travel, you cannot doubt that Buddhism is the mainstay of Bhutanese culture and Thimphu is no exception. Prayer flags flutter in the breeze, prayer wheels tinkle here and there and from the Memorial Chorten to the Cheri monastery, traditional values continue to thrive.

The latest witness is the newly-built giant Golden Buddha, rising on a hill above town to 'bestow blessings, peace and happiness to the whole world.'

Bhutan, Farmhouse Stay in Paro Valley

Traditional Farmhouse in Paro Valley ©Solange Hando

Bhutan has excellent hotels, in lovely traditional style, but for anyone who would like to get close to the 'real thing' for a day or two, a farmhouse stay is truly rewarding. Simply request it at the time of booking.

It may not be luxurious but accommodation is clean with basic facilities and definitely a warm welcome. It's a genuine chance to live with a Bhutanese family and experience something different.

Heating up Stones for the Bath ©Solange Hando

After a long flight or a day's trek , there's nothing more relaxing than a hot stone bath and most farmhouses will have one. Stones from the river bed are heated on an open fire then carried with pincers and dropped into the small compartment of a wooden tub. The water steams and sizzles and more stones can be added if needed.

No need to worry about emptying the bath for when guests have finished, family members may well follow to make full use of the hot water.

Dinner Farmhouse-Style ©Solange Hando

After the bath, time for dinner, home cooked of course and based on local produce, seasonal vegetables such as spinach or mushrooms, crispy potatoes, cheese sauce and rice, which can be the tasty red variety said to be the best in Bhutan.

Then, there is time to help the children with homework or listen to your host playing a traditional lute before gazing at the stars or retiring to your cosy room draped in colourful rugs and blankets

Smiling Hosts in Farmhouse ©Solange Hando

In the morning, you might wake to the call of a cockerel as your hosts start their working day, milking the cows, putting fresh water in the bowls around the family shrine and cooking breakfast.

Meanwhile, the mountains glow pink in the rising sun, prayer flags flutter on the edge of the paddy and the river tumbles over the stones, mingling its crystalline sound with the twittering of birds.

The Paro Valley ©Solange Hando

Tenerife South Five Star Iberostar Anthelia

One of Three Pools at the Anthelia Tenerife @Solange Hando

If you love water, you'll love the Iberostar and its choice of seawater pool and two fresh water pools, one of them heated. 

Then of course you can swim in the Atlantic and if you feel like a change, you can always head for the mountains in the background and the awesome Teide National Park.

The Iberostar Anthelia @Solange Hando

Overlooking the beach on Costa Adeje and voted 'best inclusive in Spain', the Anthelia has a wide choice of rooms catering for couples, families and business clients, Some rooms enjoy super priority location but most sought after are the seaview suites.

Although this is a large resort where you might need a day to get your bearings, it never feels crowded as buildings are clustered in village-style units around plaza and lawns, palm trees, flowers and shrubs.

Archways, balconies and pastel colours complete a traditional picture.

Superior Room at the Anthelia @Solange Hando

Rooms are spacious, pleasantly furnished in soothing colours with all the amenities you would expect from a five star venue, including free wifi, bathrobe, slippers, and chocolate on your pillow.

Best rooms are those on the upper floors, some with double sea view.

Fresh Food for Breakfast @Solange Hando

The Zeus buffet restaurant offers continental, full American, Spanish and healthy breakfasts as well as evening meal with show cooking.

Other eating venues include Poseidon, a gourmet restaurant for innovative Canarian cuisine (reservations essential), Portofino for Italian cuisine à la carte, the Beach Club Barbecue and the Mirador Terrace if you fancy a gourmet breakfast.

Reception Area and Bar @Solange Hando

The Anthelia certainly has a touch of class from marble floors to majestic staircases, from cool water features to elegant period furniture in the bar.

But looks aside, you will find plenty to do, fitness, tennis and more, plus children and teenage clubs, boutique selling beachwear and jewellery and the tantalizing Spa Sensations where experts will pamper you in true Thai Zen fashion.

The Anthelia Right by the Sea in Tenerife @Solange Hando

Love Travel, Want to Write? Pitch and Sell

Ladakh ©Solange Hando

Pitch is Best

Why?

It saves you time for you don't know what an editor has in the pipeline

It saves editors time, they're more likely to read a pitch than a whole attachment

Pitch well and you should sell every article you write

Pitch to Sell

Brief and Brilliant

Got an idea? Choose the right market, consider the readers age, budget, interests

Show, don't tell the editor you are familiar with the publication

Write your pitch in a similar style

Go straight to the point

Keep it brief

Editors want your ideas, not your life story

Finer Points

Email, don't call 

Keep your subject line precise and clear

If you try to be clever, it may look like spam

Contact the correct editor, if unsure, phone the switchboard

Make sure you have the correct spelling

Address editors as they would address their readers 

Always offer images

Finally

Don't mention payment at this stage, wait until your idea is accepted

Don't ask for guidelines

Why not?

Either they're on the web and you should have checked

If not, study the magazine and you'll have the answers

Would you like to read more?

Check this out
Ten steps is all it takes on your way to success

Be a Travel Writer

Good luck

and see you on the road...

Tobago, Winter Sun in the Caribbean

Tobago, Calm Waters on Caribbean Coast ©Solange Hando

Are you looking for a quiet holiday in the sun? Then you'll find Tobago's Caribbean Coast lined with gems, Castara, Parlatuvier, Englishman's Bay and more, perfect places to soak in the winter sun and relax for a while away from it all.

But if these resorts are too secluded for you, you can always head for the sweeping sands of Turtle Beach along the coast where pelicans skim the waves and fishermen haul in their catch in the morning. In season, turtles nest on the beach.

Traditional Bungalow on the Beach ©Solange Hando

 Tobago is definitely the quieter side of paradise, draped in palm and sea grape trees at the southern end of the Caribbean archipelago. Even Scarborough, the capital, looks like a village, a mere sprinkling of  pastel-coloured houses clinging to the slopes, while down by the harbour, the odd cruise ship soon returns to the ocean..

Little Tobago on the Atlantic Coast ©Solange Hando

But unlike the Caribbean coast on the north side of the island, the Atlantic shores to the south are rugged and wild and often battered by foaming breakers.

This more dramatic scenery has a charm all of its own and from the lovely resort of Speyside, framed by lush hills and near-deserted beaches, you can take a boat to Little Tobago island, past coral gardens and Ian Fleming's villa, You may get a little wet when you land but it's worth the effort for a pristine nature reserve greets you with gorgeous views and myriad exotic birds.

The Argyle Waterfall ©Solange Hando

Yet there's more to Tobago than the coast. Claiming the world's oldest rainforest, the Central Mountain Range stretches right across the island, crossed by luxuriant trails where humming birds and parrots splash colour in trees.

There are streams and waterfalls and refreshing pools, just right for a dip. The Argyle is sign-posted from the road so you can't get lost but if you plan to go deep into the jungle, a guide is essential.

 Beach at Pigeon Point ©Solange Hando

Tobago is rarely crowded but if you are looking for a few beach amenities, Pigeon Point is the place to go, fairly close to the airport, though even in season, you can find superb stretches of white sands with no one in sight  and swim alone in warm translucent water.

Just off shore from Pigeon Point is the Buccoo Reef where one can snorkel from a boat and gaze at fire coral, blue parrot fish and other underwater wonders.

Bhutan, Progress and Tradition

The National Assembly Building in Thimphu ©Solange Hando

Progress came with a bang in 2006 when the 4th King announced his forthcoming abdication in favour of his son  and the institution of a democratic government. Bhutan had come of age and the new National Assembly held its first session in 2008. The Bhutan Peace and Prosperity Party won every seat but two, but the situation was reversed in 2013 when the People's Democratic Party secured 32/47 seats.

Once again, change was on its way but in this traditional building oozing Buddhist values, the mission is the same, whoever is in power: 'to achieve the goal of Gross National Happiness enshrined in the Constitution' and endorsed by the highly-respected king and monks' body. 

Bright Lights in Thimphu ©Solange Hando

Thimphu has grown tenfold in the past decade or so and western dress is a common sight though at festival time, everyone loves to show off their best traditional clothes, kira for the ladies and gho for the men. The capital has its share of modern shops but craftsmen and artists still practise their ancient skills and on the roundabout, a policeman directs the traffic with the grace of a ballet dancer. There are no traffic lights.

Likewise, towns such as Punakha or Wangdi Phrodang have seen new districts popping up, financed by the World Bank and paying lip service to traditional architecture. But apartments are modern, less susceptible to fire and the people like them.

Paro Airport ©Solange Hando

Efforts to increase tourism have been successful and the infrastructure is still catching up. Druk Air, the national carrier, now shares the load with the private Bhutanese Airlines and there are a number of domestic flights which operate subject to weather conditions and passenger numbers.

The west to east highway is being upgraded across its entire length so traffic is slower than it ever was but the scenery is just as stunning.

The Black Mountains ©Solange Hando

Respect for nature and all living things remains at the heart of Bhutanese culture and that is unlikely to change for the time being. The slightest hint of a new dam arouses concerns about wild life and so far the balance is on the side of conservation. Bears roam unhindered in the forest, snow leopards and even tigers survive at high altitude and in the Phobjikha Valley, the return of black-necked cranes in the autumn is greeted with a special festival.

Tilling the Land in the Ura Valley ©Solange Hando

At first sight the pace of change is much slower in the countryside and there lies the greatest challenge for 21st century Bhutan: youngsters heading for the city, drawn by the bright lights and the lure of well paid jobs that are few and far in between. Private enterprise is in its infancy and until business skills are developed, the problem is likely to grow.

Meanwhile in the country, there are fewer farmers to till the land and fewer young people to care for the elderly and keep families together.   

Children Attending a Festival, Punakha Dzong ©Solange Hando

But it is the children who hold the key to the future and with Bhutan's laudable efforts in education and encouragement from all leaders, religious or civic, there is every reason to hope that they will achieve a fine balance between tradition and progress. Bhutan is not a 'museum' but it does have something special which is worth preserving.

Bhutan's Royalty

 Traditional Festivities in Bhutan ©Solange Hando

Bhutan is changing for sure but traditions and culture remain as strong as ever, anchored in the Buddhist faith and respect for the royal family.

In 2015, celebrations were held throughout the kingdom in honour of the 4th King's 60th birthday. They culminated in Thimphu on November 11th when soon after dawn, crowds made their way to the stadium to enjoy a colourful mix of parades, traditional dances and games and a heartfelt tribute from the current king to his father.

His Majesty the 5th King Meeting his People ©Solange Hando

Democracy came to Bhutan in 2008 but the royal family is as popular as ever, symbolising the country's unity and culture, but what the people appreciate most is their approachability and simple lifestyle. 

Don't expect a sumptuous residence or even a castle, the Royal Palace is a comfortable but modest cottage tucked among the trees on the edge of the capital, with one guard on duty at a gate you might not even notice. Then there's a retreat in Punakha which would do nicely for a solitary monk.

 Just as important, the king is close to his people, mingling with the crowds at festival time, walking across the kingdom to meet them if the occasion demands or stopping his car at the roadside to chat to farmers and villagers, listening to their concerns as an attendant makes notes which will be followed up. Just like his father did. 

Portraits of the 4th King (right) and his Son at the Birthday Celebrations ©Solange Hando

During his 34 years on the throne, until he stepped down for his son in 2006, the 4th Dragon King of Bhutan moved his country forward in bold but measured steps, reinforcing unity under the 'one nation, one people' banner, modernising the kingdom and opening the gates to the outside world while maintaining traditional Bhutanese values.

But most of all, he gave democracy to his people because he felt the time was right. Both his retirement and the new system shook the nation at the time but today, he is seen as an enlightened leader who paved the way for the future.

Punakha Dzong, Royal Wedding Location ©Solange Hando

Meanwhile in 2011, the 5th King married the young Jetsun Pema in Punakha dzong, 'the fortress of great happiness' where the first King of Bhutan was crowned. After the wedding, the King and his Queen walked more or less all the way back to Thimphu, 71km and 13 hours away, so they could meet the thousands of people who lined up along the road to pay their respects.

That's just one of the reasons why they call His Majesty 'the People's King', keen to greet them one by one and lend a hand as needed: when the magnificent dzong of Wangdi Phrodang was destroyed by fire in 2012, he left Thimphu and rushed to the site to help villagers salvage what they could.

Then at the royal celebrations in 2015, the 5th King delivered the long awaited news that a royal heir was on his way. The crowds loved it and a gentle wave of jubilation rippled across the stadium. The baby is due in the early spring and there couldn't have been a better birthday present for the 4th King.

The King and Queen of Bhutan

The 4th King had four wives but His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck has opted for one and a love marriage, even holding hands in public in a land where Gross National Happiness is enshrined in the Constitution.