Bukhara on the Silk Road in Uzbekistan

Bukhara Poi Kalyon Complex ©Solange Hando

Madrassas, mosques, mausoleums, there's so much to see in Bukhara you'd need a full week to do it justice but if time is limited, Poi Kalyon is the place you should not miss, right at the heart of the Old Town.

Meaning 'at the foot of the Great',  it includes a mosque which can hold 10000 worshippers, a madrassa still providing a four year programme of religious studies and a minaret rising 45 metres above the town.

The Trading Domes ©Solange Hando

A popular access to the complex is through the restored medieval domes, originally housing the money changers, hat makers and jewellers.  Today you can shop for all sorts of local crafts, from puppets to pottery or textile, including Suzani embroidery, enhanced with decorative threads, and Ikat silk shimmering in rainbow colours.

Weaving Carpets in Bukhara ©Solange Hando

But especially prized are the lovely silk carpets, among them the 'magic' carpets, so called for they are double-sided so you get two for the price of one. Not cheap but quality guaranteed.

Designs range from Uzbek geometric patterns to Persian flowers and the more you walk on your silk carpet, the tighter the knots and the longer it will last.

Lyabi Hauz Complex ©Solange Hando

Shaded by mulberry trees, the square is set around an ancient reservoir, 42 metres long by 36 across, glistening with the reflections of  traditional buildings draped in blue tiles and wood.

It was once a focal point for merchants and entertainers but today this is a beautifully quiet place where you can relax by the water or sip a drink in the shade.

The Ark, Bukhara's Landmark ©Solange Hando

With its mud brick walls glowing in the sun, the fortress of the Ark is one of the city's top icons, first recorded in the 7th century and reconstructed many times.

What you see today mostly dates from the 16th century, partly restored after a major fire, Beyond the steep stone ramp and gate, you will find a couple of museums, calligraphy exhibits and spine-chilling stories from the past. 

Remembering the Silk Road in Bukhara ©Solange Hando

Uzbekistan Samarkand on the Silk Road

Samarkand on the Silk Road ©Solange Hando

Samarkand dazzles you every step of the way with magnificent buildings restored with great dedication and fond memories of medieval merchants.

Once laden with exotic goods, they travelled from far and wide across Central Asia, marvelling, just as we do today, at the legendary wonders of this amazing city.

The Bibi Khanym Mosque ©Solange Hando

Among the top attractions is this 15th century mosque, commissioned by Bibi Khanym as a gift for Timur, her husband and victorious warrior, now a national hero. The mosque was rebuilt after an earthquake but still feels haunted by one of the saddest stories in the land.

Having fallen in love with Bibi, the architect kissed the lady on the cheek but when Timur returned from his campaign in India, he noticed the mark and executed his rival. Some say the lady suffered the same fate but no one is really sure. 

Shah-i Zinda Necropolis ©Solange Hando

Up on a hill on the edge of town, this necropolis includes a mausoleum honouring the 'Living King', cousin of the Prophet Mohammed and patron saint of Samarkand.

It is 35 steps to the top, a challenge on a hot day, but well worth the effort as you join worshippers making their way through the long alleyway of shrines, covered in blue and turquoise tiles.

Ulug Beg ©Solange Hando

Born in 1394, Timur's grandson was passionate about culture and science, especially astronomy for which he built the world's largest observatory at that time, on a hill but underground to protect it from earthquakes. He studied the sun and the moon and accurately positioned over 1000 stars.

Unfortunately, though widely remembered as an astronomer, Ulug Beg was not a strong ruler and he was eventually overthrown and executed by his son.

The Registan ©Solange Hando

Designed between the 15th and 17th century, Samarkand's central square claims three fabulous madrassas, fronted by a raised viewing platform for snap-happy tourists and wedding photos. The oldest building is the Ulug Beg Madrassa, on the left..

Enjoy the glowing towers and archways, ribbed minarets, restored mosaics, small souvenir shops and workshops and in the Tiger Madrassa on the right, free demonstrations of traditional music. Don't miss the stunning sound and light shows in season.

Registan

The golden ceiling in the central Tilla Kari Madrassa ©Solange Hando 

Kerala in South India

Kochi Fishing Nets ©Solange Hando

Formerly known as Cochin, this is the 'Queen of the Arabian Sea', a fascinating city set on a peninsula and islands around a vast natural harbour.

The old district has a rich history and there's a lovely promenade along the waterfront lined with stalls and seafood restaurants, and a beach, best at the far end. But most iconic are the Chinese fishing nets, each one pulled in and out of the water every 15 minutes or so.

Kerala Backwaters ©Solange Hando

Then just inland are the Kerala backwaters, the highlight of any trip to southern India. There, for a few hours or overnight, you can explore the waterways as you sail across canals, lagoons and lakes in your traditional bamboo-covered boat. 

Banks are beautifully lush and green and it's a great place to see the local life as you pass a village or two or a Hindu temple glowing in the sun. The main waterways and big Lake Vembanad may bustle with tourists and local craft but there are some amazingly quiet areas, tucked in the greenery away from it all. 

Classical Kerala ©Solange Hando

Traditional culture is alive and well, not just for visitors but for anyone in Kerala, it's is a matter of pride and identity. Above is a main character in a Khatakali performance where after the opening rituals, a centuries-old story is performed, expressing every emotion through eye and face movements.

Heavy make up and large colourful costumes add to the drama, punctuated with the relentless beating of a drum. 

Up in the Western Ghats ©Solange Hando

A short drive east leads you to the hills of the Western Ghats, an entirely different world but still part of Kerala.The Periyar Wildlife sanctuary has tree top look-outs where you might spot elephants or a lone tiger, if you are really lucky, and myriad birds if you sail on the lake where the Mulla and Periya rivers meet.

Up there, at over 700 metres the nearest village is Kumily set among spice plantations, including cardamom, the most important, which gives its name to the nearby hills.

Tea Plantations in Western Ghats ©Solange Hando

The ride from the coast to the hills is spectacular, winding past tall rubber trees, coffee bushes, spice gardens and extensive tea plantations, rolling emerald green across the slopes. Best overall views are from the pilgrimage site of Pattumala on St Francis Mount.

Sunset on the Arabian Sea, Kochi Beach ©Solange Hando

  

Want to be a Travel Writer / Part 2

HOW DO YOU DO IT?

KEEP GOING AND FOLLOW THE RAINBOW

Work sent, pictures sent

How long do you wait?

At least 2 or 3 weeks before you chase up politely

OOPS

 'No thank you', no reason given?

Put your work aside for 2 or 3 days then look at it again

Be honest, did it fit 100% or maybe not quite?

Learn as you go and the future will be bright
Now remember the other markets you had in mind? Try again, one at a time

WOW..

It's a 'yes'

If any changes are needed, don't argue, just do it

Then when all is ok, you may ask about 'usual' rates

Modest for a first piece but if they really like your work, may offer more next time round.

FOOT IN THE DOOR?

Brilliant, keep moving

Offer new ideas as soon as your work is published or even sooner if that takes a long time.

Meanwhile check new ideas, new markets and have several queries/features out at the same time 

The harder you work, the luckier you'll get

ANYTHING ELSE?

Blog or print, read lots of travel and learn from others

Join any relevant associations, attend travel shows and network as much as possible

Ask tourist boards and operators to put your name on their lists for any new information

Work on your profile, have a website and link everything you do to social media.

Flying High

Be a Travel Writer

Want to be a Travel Writer? Part 1

How do you do it?

Just 5 steps to success
Come along and follow me up

STEP 1

WHERE DO YOU START?

*Prior to travelling

Do some research, know what you want to see

*On location

Keep a diary, note what you notice, what you feel, not google stuff but your own observations

Take lots of photos, a pocket camera will do but if you're aiming for print, high resolution's best

STEP 2

WHAT TO WRITE

*Blogging

Want to tell the story of your trip? Perfect

Blog as you go along, keep it regular and link to social media to increase followers

*Print

Focus on specific ideas, the tighter the better

Family attractions, city break, cycling, water sports, food and wine, saving turtles, Hindu temple

The list is endless, how many can you think of?

STEP 3

WHERE TO SELL IT

Decide on your top 3 ideas

*Check out possible publications: newsagent or internet

Look beyond the obvious: niche markets, women's mag, seniors, crafts, gardens, health... 

*Which magazines/newspapers would be interested in your idea?
Find at least 2 or 3

Imagine the readers: age group, budget, interest

STEP 4

GETTING THERE

Choose your favourite market and email a query to the editor (travel or features)

That's professional and will save time to both of you

*Keep your letter short but make it interesting

*Write it in the magazine style so the editor knows you've read it

If you have fabulous images, send 2 or 3, low resolution at this stage

*No CV, editors just want ideas 

Don't ask about rates until your work is accepted

STEP 5

READY, STEADY, GO

*Check similar articles in your chosen market and make sure you get it right

Word count, paragraphs, 1st or 3rd person, vocabulary, fact box

Plus nitty gritty, it or it's, three or 3, metric or imperial and so on

*Now you can write but make sure you respect format and style

Read and enjoy
'Packed with practical advice and entertaining'
Be a Travel Writer

Charleston Luxury Hotel Bennett South Carolina

Hotel Bennett, Downtown Charleston ©Solange Hando

Opened in 2019 after 20 years planning, this is one of the grandest hotels in Charleston, set on a corner of King Street and the vast Marion Square with a pleasant terrace overlooking the greenery.

'European outside but southern inside', it is right at the heart of town within walking distance of designer shops, the city's historic market and harbour.

Welcome to Hotel Bennet ©Solange Hando

Step in  and you are greeted by this inner circular entrance where colourful murals by local artists reflect Charleston as it was, at the mouth of three rivers.
A grand stairway beckons beyond the reception and you can expect elegance all around enhanced by glowing marble.

A Place to Sleep Well ©Solange Hando

Guest rooms are spacious and light with floor to ceiling windows and most of them have a balcony with a view. Enjoy a superb bathroom, fine bedding and amenities and since a library used to be on the spot, your own bookcase. It's remote control for curtains and lights, easy to use once you get the hang of it.

The hotel has 179 rooms and suites, single or double, suites ranging from Junior King to Ambassador and Presidential with scenic terrace all around. 

Swimming Pool , Hotel Bennett ©Solange Hando

Lovely place to cool down, this is the rooftop pool where guests can reserve a cabana for privacy and shade. Close to the bar and terrace with a view. 

Other facilities include a gym and spa with tempting rituals such as blue diamond facial,  aromatherapy massage or  'holy city' healing wrap (the city is so called for its many spires).

The Champagne Bar ©Solange Hando

Inspired by Fabergé's egg and named Camellias, the oval-shaped Champagne Bar is the talk of town, especially appreciated for its caviar delicacies. 

Fiat Lux, the rooftop bar whose name means 'let there be light', serves delicious Mediterranean food and there's also a Pâtisserie and coffee shop for hand-crafted sandwiches and  pastries.
'Gabrielle' is the main restaurant, offering oysters, clams, red snapper, lamb roulade, Peking duck a l'orange and more.The chef comes from New Orleans and the pastry master from France. 

Cosy Corner at the Bennett ©Solange Hando

Hotel Bennett has conference and wedding venues and some quiet stylish corners to meet and chat with friends. Then for a real VIP treatment, book access to the King's Club when you reserve your room. Among other things, this covers a Champagne welcome, use of the private lounge with verandah,  services of a dedicated concierge and exclusive transfer to the city.

View from the Terrace, Ravenel Bridge over the river Cooper ©Solange Hando 

Carcassonne Citadel, UNESCO Site in South of France

The Citadel of Carcassonne, World Heritage ©Solange Hando

There it is across the river Aude, the largest medieval walled town in Europe, restored in the 19th century by Viollet le Duc with some artistic license, but a fairy tale nevertheless.

Best overall view is across the river or from the old medieval bridge, now traffic free, which you can see on the right hand side. Ideal location for Bastille Day fireworks.

The main entrance to the Cité ©Solange Hando

The windswept Narbonne gate takes you across the drawbridge then you can stroll through the lists between the 3km enclosure of double ramparts, taking in dark dungeons and 52 towers.

Then climb up the cobbled lanes in the inner town and explore souvenir and craft shops, museums and restaurants.

Looking North ©Solange Hando

You can also walk up on the ramparts for most of the way and enjoy all round view. To the north you look out to the Black Mountain and the foothills of the Massif Central and to the south by clear weather the snow-capped peaks of the Pyrenees.

Below you is the Bastide, or New Town, glistening along the river and the Canal du Midi which is also a UNESCO site.

The Counts' Castle ©Solange Hando

Inside the citadel right at the very top is the inner castle where medieval counts were well protected. Carcassonne was indeed a strategic crossroad, very close to the Spanish border until this was moved  further south by the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659.

See the museum inside and the nearby basilica.

Down to the Barbacane District ©Solange Hando

Walking back this way gives you different views of the ramparts, towers and gates but look out for the tourist train that uses the same path.

One of my Favourite Views ©Solange Hando

Venture round the back of the citadel and you will find these lush vineyards highlighting the iconic Cité, just as you would expect in the sunny south of France.