Wild Life Encounters in Africa

 

Cheetah in Namibia ©Solange Hando

Did you know? Namibia was the first country to include conservation in its Constitution and in this big but sparsely populated country, wild life always has the right of way.

There are 200 mammal species on land and you will see them all over the country but top attraction is the Ethiopia National Park in the north where I came across this beautiful cheetah in the nearby AfriCat Foundation reserve.

                                                                     Elephants in Botswana ©Solange Hando

This is in the Chobe National Park by the namesake river, a wonderful place to see the wild life, especially in the dry season. 

Lions, giraffes, buffaloes, gazelles and more, it's amazing but my favourites were the elephants, such as this mother and babe who just swam across the river to spend the night on Sedudu island, the safest place for the young.

                                                             Gelada Baboons in Ethiopia ©Solange Hando

What's special about them? They're only found in the Ethiopian Highlands with the largest population in the Simien Mountains.

Notice the young one on the left clinging to his mum and to the right the father, displaying the red patch on his chest. The larger the patch, the more attractive he will be to the other sex.

                                                               Penguins in South Africa ©Solange Hando

This is Boulder Beach, not far from Cape Town and part of the Table Mountain National Park Marine Area. Stay on the trail, keep quiet and enjoy the display as they wobble across the white sand and you might even spot a baby's head popping out of a nest. 

Others venture up on the granite rocks, sharing the space with cormorants drying their wings in the hot African sun.

                                                                         Rhino in Zambia ©Solange Hando

How close is that on a walking safari? Pretty close as we trekked in single file, two of us with six armed guards to keep away poachers, not rhinos... Not far from the Victoria Falls, so if you go there, check it out.

Black rhinos are a true success story in Zambia though you do find white ones too. Both similar colour but the difference between black and white simply refers to the length of the horns and shape of the lips.

                                                                     Lemur in Madagascar ©Solange Hando

What an island this is, so rich in flora and fauna, best known of course, the incredible lemurs living undisturbed in their natural habitats.

There are over 100 species of lemurs -and probably more yet to be discovered-, though my favourites were the playful ring-tailed, the black and white indri, the largest we know, and this lovely silky sifaka and babe, often called the dancing lemur, hopping along with the grace of a ballerina.

                                                                Sunset with the Wild Life, Namibia ©Solange Hando

 

Ethiopia Top Attraction Lalibela

Lalibela ©Solange Hando

Lalibela? But where is the town?.. in the middle of nowhere, a fairly long drive from the namesake airport, up steep winding hills through rugged scenery with a few clusters of trees hiding the all important water. 

But eventually you reach a bustling settlement, houses climbing up the slopes with spectacular views all round.

St George's Carved out of the Rock ©Solange Hando

Top attraction and listed by UNESCO are the rock-hewn churches, 13 of them dating back to medieval times. The first one was designed by King Lalibela,  carved from the rock underground to protect it from natural disasters and possible invasions.

Traditional Interior, Orthodox Church Lalibela ©Solange Hando

Lalibela was designed as a new Jerusalem, a haven for pilgrims who still come from far and wide to do their devotions. Beautifully decorated with paintings and drapes, each church is different, accessed via steep steps, underground passages and tunnels.

Priests are around all day and as elsewhere in this highly religious country, you can expect the Orthodox call to prayer at first light every day.

View from my Hotel in Lalibela ©Solange Hando

But there's more to Lalibela than churches. Once you're up there, expect spectacular views all round and always changing, from the deserted side just beyond town to tiny road and lane meandering up from the airport towards panoramic hotels draped in greenery and tropical flowers.

Coffee Time? ©Solange Hando

For neighbours, family and friends, traders or visitors, coffee is an essential part of life, prepared according to rituals in a special ceremony which can take 30 minutes or more.

This is the delicious coffee arabica, first grown in Ethiopia, and they say any problem can be solved over a cup of coffee.

Traditional Huts ©Solange Hando

Wander around and you find a few traditional huts, restored for show, an amazing hilltop restaurant managed by a Scottish lady and a week-end market downtown where you can bargain for anything, including goats.

Sunset from Panoramic Hotel ©Solange Hando

Ethiopia Maribela Boutique Hotel in Lalibela

Stunning Views from Maribela Hotel ©Solange Hando

Located on a ridge in the Ethiopian highlands, this panoramic hotel is delightful, rustic, elegant, easily accessed from the airport and a short drive from the famous rock-hewn churches of Lalibela.

The view above is from the outdoor section of the bar-restaurant framed by flowers and plants. Service is friendly, food delicious, continental or Ethiopian, my top favourite the avocado salad.

Coffee Time? ©Solange Hando

Like to try Ethiopian coffee? 

This is available all day, free of charge and freshly prepared in a traditional coffee ceremony, reflecting the heart and soul of this ancient country.

Likewise the local honey wine is ready to welcome you whenever you step in.

Bed for one? Wow... ©Solange Hando

Maribela has just 17 rooms on 4 floors -no lift but worth it for the views- ranging from single and double to King, Deluxe and Style Suite, some with double poster beds and traditional furniture.

All are spacious, quiet with picture windows and balcony complete with a day bed so you can relax and enjoy the scenery any time.

Corridor outside my Room ©Solange Hando

Arts and crafts depicting local life are attractive, especially the lampshades, by your bed or your door, and the angel face on your ceiling which turns into the main light.

Sculpted wood and orange shades add warmth to Maribella's unique authentic decor.

Cosy Corner ©Solange Hando

Small but cosy, grounds have quiet corners where you can meet  friends, share a drink and chat in the shade or in the sun.

Lush vegetation is all around, trees, flowers and plants and you are sure to see the bird life undisturbed by the guests.  

Maribela is a green hotel, staffed by locals and to encourage reforestation, some of the profits in the past 3 years have been donated to plant 2000 trees and drought-resistant flowering plants.

Sunset from my Balcony ©Solange Hando

Ethiopia Lake Tana and the Blue Nile

Lake Tana ©Solange Hando

About 500 km north of the capital, Tana is Ethiopia's largest lake, almost the size of an inland sea but freshwater all the way and only 14 metres deep on average.

Best place to stay is the lovely resort of Bahir Bar, all tropical flowers and trees, set on a peninsula in the south-east corner of the lake.

Ready to explore? ©Solange Hando

 Rivers and streams, at least two dozens of them, flow into the lake but there is only one outlet and that is the source of the Blue Nile in the south east where this boat is heading.

Beyond the lake, the river flows south then west through dramatic gorges then up north to Sudan where it joins the White Nile, providing 80% of the combined water.

Hippos enjoying the Blue Nile ©Solange Hando

Lake Tana is rich in wild life, many species of fish, some endemic, birds -especially white pelicans-  and small pods of hippos who enjoy the shallows close to the source but sometimes venture a little further.

Emerald water near the source ©Solange Hando

This local man is collecting papyrus from the shore which he will sell in the local market. Papyrus is burnt as incense to please the gods.

Islands on the lake have Orthodox chapels and monasteries and are highly respected pilgrimage sites for locals.

Approaching the Blue Nile Falls ©Solange Hando

Beyond the lake a country drive takes you from Tana to the Falls, an amazing chance to see genuine villages and rural life unchanged, it seems, by centuries.

It's a rough road much of the way then a walk across open land before bouncing on a long suspension bridge for a close look of the Falls.

Blue Nile Falls in Ethiopia ©Solange Hando

Here they are in the dry season, not at their most spectacular, but good enough for me, dropping 45 metres from the top, with scenic trails meandering up the nearby slopes.

In the wet season, the 160 metre wide river is channelled through a thunderous gorge just 20 metres across.

 Sunrise on Lake Tana ©Solange Hando