Wild Life Encounters in Africa

 

Cheetah in Namibia ©Solange Hando

Did you know? Namibia was the first country to include conservation in its Constitution and in this big but sparsely populated country, wild life always has the right of way.

There are 200 mammal species on land and you will see them all over the country but top attraction is the Ethiopia National Park in the north where I came across this beautiful cheetah in the nearby AfriCat Foundation reserve.

                                                                     Elephants in Botswana ©Solange Hando

This is in the Chobe National Park by the namesake river, a wonderful place to see the wild life, especially in the dry season. 

Lions, giraffes, buffaloes, gazelles and more, it's amazing but my favourites were the elephants, such as this mother and babe who just swam across the river to spend the night on Sedudu island, the safest place for the young.

                                                             Gelada Baboons in Ethiopia ©Solange Hando

What's special about them? They're only found in the Ethiopian Highlands with the largest population in the Simien Mountains.

Notice the young one on the left clinging to his mum and to the right the father, displaying the red patch on his chest. The larger the patch, the more attractive he will be to the other sex.

                                                               Penguins in South Africa ©Solange Hando

This is Boulder Beach, not far from Cape Town and part of the Table Mountain National Park Marine Area. Stay on the trail, keep quiet and enjoy the display as they wobble across the white sand and you might even spot a baby's head popping out of a nest. 

Others venture up on the granite rocks, sharing the space with cormorants drying their wings in the hot African sun.

                                                                         Rhino in Zambia ©Solange Hando

How close is that on a walking safari? Pretty close as we trekked in single file, two of us with six armed guards to keep away poachers, not rhinos... Not far from the Victoria Falls, so if you go there, check it out.

Black rhinos are a true success story in Zambia though you do find white ones too. Both similar colour but the difference between black and white simply refers to the length of the horns and shape of the lips.

                                                                     Lemur in Madagascar ©Solange Hando

What an island this is, so rich in flora and fauna, best known of course, the incredible lemurs living undisturbed in their natural habitats.

There are over 100 species of lemurs -and probably more yet to be discovered-, though my favourites were the playful ring-tailed, the black and white indri, the largest we know, and this lovely silky sifaka and babe, often called the dancing lemur, hopping along with the grace of a ballerina.

                                                                Sunset with the Wild Life, Namibia ©Solange Hando

 

Southern Africa my Favourite Spots

 

South Africa Drakensberg ©Solange Hando

The Zulus call it 'Barrier of Spears' and this is the highest mountain range in the country. A place for stunning views, rare species and spectacular sunsets.

Drive all the way up to the Sani pass if you dare, 2784 metres, enjoy a meal in the pub and if time allows, spend the night in a traditional rondavel or pop over the border into Lesotho.

                                                               Namib Desert ©Solange Hando

This is the 'sea of sand' spreading all along the coast of Namibia, across the borders and inland for up to 120 km. They say it is the oldest desert in the world and claims some of the highest dunes.

This is an amazing place with dried up oases and skeleton trees but at times some unexpected greenery benefitting from moisture from the nearby Atlantic. Look out for wild life, including the oryx gazelle, Namibia's national animal.

                                                            Victoria Falls in Zambia ©Solange Hando

Plunging down to 108 metres, the Victoria Falls spread 17 km across Zambia and Zimbabwe- the quieter side-, protected by Unesco and national parks on both sides.

On the Zambian side, you can walk along the 'knife's edge' bridge but only the brave should bathe in the Devil's Pool on Livingstone Island. 

                                                     Chobe National Park in Botswana ©Solange Hando

Easily accessed from neighbouring Zambia, this is a great wilderness of wetlands and riverine forest meandering along the blue Chobe river.

It's a haven for wild life on land and water, elephants, giraffes, hippos, crocs, buffaloes and more, and 460 species of birds. One of the best safaris in Africa.

                                                       Madagascar Land of Lemurs ©Solange Hando

Off the east coast of Africa in the Indian Ocean, this is a big island but two national parks are relatively close to Antananarivo, the capital, most popular Andasibe, a four hour drive or so.

Andasibe's easy trails give you to chance to see a range of lemurs in the wild, including the indri, the largest- and the beautiful 'dancing lemur', as seen on the picture. 

                                                                  Reunion Island ©Solange Hando

Just east of Madagascar, Reunion is a volcanic hotspot, all ravines, gorges and peaks, very green except for the Furnace Peak which erupts every few months.

But in this far away French department, there's plenty to do and see from forlorn villages and mountain treks to tropical beaches and seaside resorts with few crowds.

                                                                 Mauritius ©Solange Hando

          Then if you need to relax, just check out the paradise island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean.

South Africa Drakensberg, Sani Pass and the Highest Pub in Africa

Driving up to the Sani Pass ©Solange Hando

The Drakensberg, or Dragon mountains, deserve their name, all jagged peaks and dramatic rocks silhouetted against a blue sky. The Zulus call them the Barrier of Spears and that suits them just as well.

It's a great place for serious hikers but for the less adventurous, the drive up to the Sani Pass is a scenic alternative if you don't mind mountain roads.

The Drakensberg, South Africa ©Solange Hando

The drive is gentle enough at first, past blossoming trees and golden protea splashing colour at the roadside.

There are places to stop and gaze at the view and a chance to spot baboons and antelopes roaming around.

A few kilometres below Sani, you enter a no man's land leading up to the kingdom of Lesotho just beyond the pass. That's when the fun begins and driving skills are put to the test.

Ice Corner below the Sani Pass ©Solange Hando

Soon, the road begins to climb, narrow and steep, twisting around vertiginous bends with names that say it all, 'ice corner, 'suicide corner', 'god help me corner' and as a last resort for some, 'whisky corner'.

The final bend often requires a three point turn then at last you are there, greeted by thin air, sweeping winds and views to die for.

The Highest Pub in Africa ©Solange Hando

But before you enjoy it all, you probably want to warm up in the Sani top chalet, the highest pub on the continent which serves delicious hot food and mulled wine.

There's plenty of jolly company inside and you could even spend the night in a rondavel, a traditional African hut. There's skiing in winter and rambling in summer.

Lesotho ©Solange Hando

But most visitors just walk across the border into Lesotho where people wrapped in blankets from head to toe share the bleak plateau with angora goats. You are likely to be invited into a hut for a sip of sorghum beer from a communal mug and a few souvenirs from woolly hats to African beads.

View from the Sani Pass ©Solange Hando

Back on the pass, lesser kestrels and bearded vultures hover in the thermals while wild orchids and carnations bloom in the hollows. You feel on top of the world as velvety slopes unfold at your feet, tinted with gold, purple and pink, and  the long winding road shows you the way home.