Paro, Gateway to Bhutan

Paro Airport, A Festive Welcome ©Solange Hando

All visitors flying to Bhutan land in Paro, the kingdom's only international airport, roughly an hour's drive from Thimphu, the capital. At just over 2000 metres, it's the perfect place to acclimatise for at least a couple of days before tackling the high Himalayan passes further along the way.

But Paro is well worth a longer stop with much to explore in town and the surrounding area. On a clear day, you can see Jhomolhari, Bhutan's second highest peak, from the ruins of Drukgyel dzong up valley.

Traditional Street in Paro, Bhutan ©Solange Hando

Paro is a lovely little town, laid-back and welcoming, with colourful streets where small shops and houses are finely decorated with carved eaves and window frames. Some have auspicious signs painted on exterior walls, from conch shells and lotus flowers to undisguised phallic symbols.

There are Buddhist flags and prayer wheels, giant incense burners to appease the spirits and chillies drying in the sun. The river babbles over the stones, so clear you could almost see yourself in the water.

Paro Market ©Solange Hando

The local market is one of my favourite spots, barely a tourist in sight, just a fabulous display of garden produce spread on the ground or piled in bamboo baskets, from apples and beans to the ubiquitous chillies.

No one minds you taking pictures and there are plenty of smiling faces.

Taktsang near Paro ©Solange Hando

But for any Bhutanese, Paro holds a special place for it is here that Buddhism was introduced to the kingdom. Just out of town, the Taktsang monastery is one of the holiest sites in the country. 

It's a fair trek from the valley floor, two to three hours depending on fitness, but you can ride ponies to the half way point and enjoy the view over the valley and across the rocky precipice to the monastery, known as the 'Tiger's Lair'.

Paro Dzong and Watchtower on Hilltop ©Solange Hando

Taktsang however is only one of the many religious sites with walls covered in paintings,intriguing horoscopes and prayer wheels you spin for luck. Look out for Kyichu Lakhang set among the paddies and of course, Paro dzong, where festivals are held, with its covered bridge and its old watch tower, now housing the National Museum where pride of place goes to an extensive and highly valuable collection of Bhutanese stamps.

The Bucolic Paro Valley ©Solange Hando

You'll find plenty of accommodation in Paro and around, from traditional lodges and farm stays to up market hotels, and you may well feel you'd like to stay a little longer in this peaceful valley.

Temples aside, there's plenty to do, from country walks to driving to the secluded Haa Valley over the high Chele La pass, relaxing in a hot stone bath or watching an archery contest, but  don't forget, this is only the gateway to the small but amazing kingdom Bhutan...

Bhutan, Taktsang, the Tiger's Lair in the Paro Valley

Paro, Taktsang, the Tiger's Lair ©Solange Hando

Clinging to a rocky ledge, 900 metres above the valley floor, Taktsang is the most holy site in Bhutan and top attraction near Paro, the pretty little town which claims the only international airport.

According to legend, the Tiger's Lair is named after Guru Rinpoche who in the 8th century flew to this spot on the back of a tigress to bring Buddhism to the valley. Before setting off on his mission, he meditated in a cave and over time, the monastery and myriad temples and shrines were built around it.

Prayer Wheel on the Way to Taktsang ©Solange Hando

It's roughly a three hour trek to the monastery, though you can hire a pony to the half way point. The first section takes you through a forest of blue pines and rhododendrons where primroses and orchids bloom along the path. Only bird song and the occasional tinkling of  prayer wheels disturb the silence.

Taktsang from the Lodge ©Solange Hando

Draped in marigolds, a rustic lodge welcomes you half way up, looking out to the monastery, so close yet so far across the chasm and inaccessible, it seems.There's hot tea and soup but if you want lunch on the way down, it's best to order on the way up.

There's a scenic though vertiginous viewpoint on a rock around the corner, a must if this is as far as you want to go.

Waterfall on the Trail to Taktsang ©Solange Hando

After the lodge, the path climbs steeply above the tree line, fringed with holy rocks and caves while temples and shrines nestle on the slopes all around.

At last the monastery appears, almost within reach but first you have to tackle the 775 steps down to the waterfall and footbridge then climb back up to the gate on the other side. If you don't have a permit , this is as far as you can go.

Approaching Taktsang above Paro ©Solange Hando

Hand in your camera at the gate (photographs are not allowed on site) then you can peep into the holy cave and make your way along the dizzying ledge, marvelling at this extraordinary complex where monks can spend up to seven years in solitary meditation in the furthest building. Inside the temple,  incense rises around gilded statues and awesome paintings of gurus and deities and the deep chanting of monks echoes all around.

In 1998, Taktsang was partly destroyed by fire but donations of cash and labour restored to its former self, as dramatic and inspiring as it has ever been.

Rainbow over the Paro Valley ©Solange Hando

For many visitors to Bhutan, Taktsang is the highlight of the trip and whether you go right to the top or just half way, weather permitting, you can expect superb views of the Paro valley, its traditional houses sprinkled here and there, the wooded hills and the river meandering along golden paddies.