Saturday 28 May 2022

A few of my Favourite Cities

 
                                                             Samarkand ©Solange Hando

One of the oldest cities on the Silk Road, Samarkand enjoyed a new golden age in the 14th century,  when  the great conqueror Timur made it his capital,  in stunning Islamic style. Later destroyed in troubled times, it was restored in modern days and remains the unmissable attraction in Uzbekistan.

Three madrassas (religious schools), mosques topped with minarets and domes, archways, glistening tiles, flowers everywhere and no traffic on the main square, it's a popular place for wedding or honeymoon photos. Most inspiring for worshippers and visitors alike is the gold-covered Tilla-Kari.




                                                                Istanbul ©Solange Hando

Spreading either side of the Bosphorus, this is a city of two continents, Asia to the east, Europe to the west bustling with palaces and mosques, fountains and leafy squares. Best views of the city and waterways are from the impressive Topkapi Palace rising on the hilltop above the Bosphorus and Golden Horn confluence.

Browse the Grand Bazaar, one the world's largest, see the iconic double-decked Galata bridge and cruise on the Bosphorus, linking the Med. to the Black Sea, past scenic bays, summer palaces and villas and the old fortress guarding the narrowest point.


                                                                    Marrakech ©Solange Hando

Set between the Atlantic and the Sahara, it's the most enticing place in Morocco, high in colour with its tree-lined boulevards and meandering lanes where you may well lose your way. See palaces and mosques, city walls, storks rattling on the old fort and the legendary souks where so many artisans display genuine crafts.

The adjoining Djema el Fna square (above) is for fresh citrus juice, figs, nuts and more in the day but come darkness, this is the heart of town. Musicians, acrobats, dancers, snake charmers, fortune tellers, water sellers, the 'free' show is on every night and if you dare, you can dine local style under the stars. Meanwhile the Koutoubia glows above it all, its slender minaret the unforgettable landmark of Marrakech.
 


                                                                    Cape Town ©Solange Hando

Fringed by the foaming Atlantic, Cape Town is full of contrast from modern and colonial buildings to breezy avenues or colourful alleyways. Most popular is the bustling Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, restaurants, shops and harbour tinkling with fishing and pleasure boats. Just a short walk away the Sea Point promenade has gorgeous views and plenty of fresh air.

But wherever you are, the dark Table Mountain draws your gaze, rising over 1000 metres.  It's a challenging climb to the top or you can queue for the cable car with revolving platform. Up there the panorama stretches from city and harbour to Robben Island (where Mandela was detained) and coastal peaks all the way to Cape peninsula. Allow plenty of time for the views then explore the quiet trails all around, rich in fauna and flora.



                                                                      Toronto ©Solange Hando

In this multicultural city, the centre is easy to explore on foot as it is generally set on grid pattern. In complete contrast to new buildings and city hall, the old town has historic buildings, including the old city hall with 'Big Ben' like tower. The slender CNN tower (553 metres) is the most iconic landmark with breath taking views over the city and Lake Ontario dotted with lush islands.

Cruising on the lake is a lovely way to relax but save time if you can for the Niagara Falls, roughly 1.5 hour drive, and a day trip you won't forget. Toronto is also the place where you can board the Canadian rail all the way to Vancouver.




                                                                 Cuzco in Peru ©Solange Hando

At 3400 metres up in the Andes, I soon learnt to beware of the altitude and take it easy on the first day or two. No problem, the central square is so colourful you can just sit and watch, from the brightly dressed local women to the glowing colonial churches, the fountain, the pretty balconies and nearby arcades where tea shops recommend cocoa tea (within reason), to cope with altitude.

There are plenty of historic and sacred sites in town, blessed by the large statue of Christ on the panoramic hilltop. Mountains rise all around, fertile valleys below, while just along the trail the Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman display some of the largest stones ever discovered on such a site.
 



                                                                 Paro ©Solange Hando


If you fly to Bhutan, this is where you land on a challenging but accessible runway (road only to capital). Dotted with Buddhist temples, this pretty town has traditional architecture, lots of prayer wheels and flags and a magnificent dzong (fortified monastery) reached by a covered wooden bridge across the river. Boutiques and pastry shops are popping up but the local market remains authentic.

Just out of town is the kingdom's most sacred site, Taktsang or the Tiger's Lair, where Buddhism arrived in Bhutan. It's a steep but inspiring trail to the top though there are ponies to the scenic spot half way up. Either way, looking at mountains, forests and valleys, you know you have entered the land of Gross National Happiness and with 800 million trees, the only carbon negative country in the world.




                                                                    Kyoto ©Solange Hando

Laced in waterways at the foot of the mountains, Japan's cultural capital claims myriad heritage gems, from the traditional Geisha district to palace and castle, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. Among them are 17 UNESCO sites, including the iconic Kinkaku-ji (above).

Also called Rokuon-ji (deer garden), this Zen Buddhist temple is Kyoto's undisputed icon and as such, a crowded place at first sight. But there's always a quiet corner to appreciate the scene as the Golden Pavilion sends its secret vibes across the lake festooned in tender green leaves and cherry blossom.


 








 

Saturday 2 April 2022

Tangier Cosmopolitan City in Northern Morocco

Tangier across the Strait of Gibraltar ©Solange Hando

Framed by the hills, at the meeting point of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, Tangier has always been on the important trade route but with the cargo port now moved 40 km out of town, it looks much more like a 'resort', complete with a brand new marina and fishing harbour.

Cruise ships can dock within walking distance of the old and new towns though if you really want to take it easy, there is a shuttle bus to take you there.



Harbour Mosque in Tangier ©Solange Hando

First sight is likely to be the new Harbour Mosque overlooking the sea, only open to worshippers but so elegant and lofty it is an emblem you cannot forget.

Mosques (and churches) are found across town, including the Grand Mosque in the old district, built in the 19th century on the site of a Portuguese cathedral, and later enlarged for Friday Prayers.



Medina in Tangier ©Solange Hando

Not to be missed is the medina clambering up the hill with tiny squares and meandering lanes, sky blue walls festooned in trellises and potted plants.

Walk up to the Kasbah, enjoy the views, explore the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, in a former sultan's palace, browse the local craft and sip mint tea on the Petit Socco square, once the place to avoid but now beautifully refreshed.



Bay of Tangier ©Solange Hando

Then of course there's the beach, vast sweeping sands stretching as far as you can see and camels waiting to take you on a ride if you dare. But if you prefer quiet coves and hidden bays, you will find a few out of town.

But take time to stroll down the new jetty between marina and beach, lunch in a spotless restaurant and marvel at the view right across the bay.



New Town, Tangier ©Solange Hando

Now along the seafront the New Town beckons in a range of styles, from 21st century tower blocks to colonial architecture with wrought iron balconies or gleaming white walls with pastel-coloured frames around windows and doors. It feels almost European and unique in Morocco.




Grand Socco in Tangier ©Solange Hando

This is the city's main square, also known as 'April 9th', remembering the momentous speech held by sultan Mohammed V in 1947, advocating independence for his people. It took almost 10 years to achieve but today the palm-lined square is a lovely place for locals to relax and meet their friends.
Nearby is the house where Matisse spent so much of his time, enchanted like so many artists and writers, by the luminous light and culture.



Gateway to Africa ©Solange Hando





 


 

Saturday 5 February 2022

My Favourite Islands Part 2

                                                                   Madagascar ©Solange Hando  

       Beaches? Of course, including off-shore luxury resorts, but the main island -the oldest in the world- is a must for nature lovers, with an amazing variety of unique flora and fauna which evolved in isolation.

    Stretching 1000 miles over 40 reserves and national parks, Madagascar takes your breath away, especially when you spot the lemurs swinging in the trees or gambolling on the grass. There are over 100 species out in the jungle, sightings guaranteed with expert guides, such as the lovely Dancing Lemur above, hopping around with her young.



Reunion Island ©Solange Hando

    Looking for sweeping sands and blue water? Here you are on a French island between Madagascar and Mauritius. Above is St Gilles, beach (near the marina) affectionately known as St Tropez on the exotic Reunion.
    
    But make no mistake, the island is among the top hotspots on the planet, its lush interior carved with gorges, ravines and rocks, three calderas and a mighty volcano, the Furnace Peak, spitting out its lava into the the sea every few months. But it is all under control, away from the villages, and when it is safe, you can trek on stunning trails or see it all from a microlight or helicopter. Fabulous...




Corfu ©Solange Hando

    North-west of mainland Greece, this is the greenest of the Ionian islands, an enticing place with tiny coves and sweeping sands dotted with holiday resorts, lapped by the turquoise sea. The pretty capital (by the same name) claims two Venetian fortresses and an old town lined with craft shops and convivial café-terrace.

    But beyond the coastal strip, the monasteries and bell-ringing churches, you will find hills and mountains  laced in scenic trails, off the beaten track. See golden broom, lemon groves, jasmine, honeysuckle and if you feel like it, hike up to the highest peak (Pantokrator, over 900m) for panoramic views across the island and nearby Albania.




Japan Miyajima ©Solange Hando

        In Hiroshima Bay, the 'inland sea', this is a popular escape away from the bustling cities.
It's also a pilgrimage site where the traditional red Torii gate marks the entrance of a sacred site, leading to the 12th Shinto shrine on the nearby inlet. Most inspiring time is at high tide when gate and shrine (still accessible) seem to float like magic on quiet waters.

        Away from restaurants and shops, paths meander through the forest (see wild deer) to a lovely temple in its own oasis of peace. Then you can walk up or take the cable car to the highest hill (500m) for breath taking views. 





Tobago ©Solange Hando

     At the southern end of the Caribbean, they call it the 'quieter side of paradise.' It's a bucolic place with brightly painted huts, a gentle pace of life and a wide variety of landscapes, including hills and 
jungle home to 400 species of birds.

        The coast includes beautiful crescent coves and wide sands where pelicans come to feed at dusk and leatherhead turtles return every year to build their nests. But like on other islands, make sure you choose your favourite shore: here the north coast is the true Caribbean postcard lapped by calm blue waters while the south is rugged and wild, foaming with Atlantic breakers. 




Tup Island ©Solange Hando

        On Thailand's south-west coast, this is one of over 100 paradise islands in the Krabi province. Hop on a traditional long tail boat in Ao Nang Bay and you'll soon be dazzled by pristine white sands, tropical fish and here and there, dramatic rocks rising from the sea.

    Come low tide, you can walk on the soft powdery sand to the next island (no 'chicken' but that's its name) and enjoy panoramic views along the Krabi coast. You'll probably spot James Bond and Phi Phi islands but with so much space, Tup rarely feels crowded.




Sunset on the Indian Ocean ©Solange Hando


        


Saturday 8 January 2022

My Favourite Islands Part 1

   Grenada ©Solange Hando


 Sweeping white sands, it's paradise, lapped on one side by the blue Caribbean and on the other the silvery waves of the Atlantic. Relax in the resorts, Grand Anse the most popular, then look out for boat trips along the coast and mountain tours past traditional villages so rich in colour.

    Framed by lush volcanic hills, St Geoge's is the 'the prettiest capital in the Caribbean', they say, with three harbours, shops and markets full of local spices and tropical fruit and of course, the unrivalled island rum. 



                                                      Sri Lanka fishermen ©Solange Hando

Close to southern India, it's just a drop in the ocean but with so much variety, this is an amazing place. The Cultural Triangle takes you from ancient cities to lakeside Kandy, capital of the Hidden Kingdom until 1815. See spectacular temples and fortresses (don't miss Sigiriya) and discover nature reserves and tea plantations as you travel inland.

Best known beaches are in the south west where a few fishermen still perch on stilts. Swaying palms and turquoise sea, the scent of frangipani and a relaxing ayurvedic massage in your hotel, it's a dream come true. Even the leatherback turtles return year after year to build their nests in the sand. 





Vancouver Island ©Solange Hando

On the Pacific Ocean, off Vancouver City on the main land, this is the largest island along this stretch of coast and the provincial capital of British Columbia. Laced in mountains, rivers and beaches. you can discover the scenery on a boat trip or even a sea plane but beyond the vineyards, be sure to enjoy a leisurely walk in the wonderful Butchart Gardens.

Victoria is the attractive capital, fountains and flowers, horse-drawn carriages and grand Victorian façades mingling with pastel coloured walls. There are lots of antique and pastry shops and a glistening marina to watch the world go by.



Sicily ©Solange Hando

Sicily often calls me back with its own character draped in luminous light on the blue Mediterranean. I love it all around from Palermo (above) and Cefalu to Taormina and beyond, with so many beaches and spectacular scenery, including Mount Etna and its awesome lava fields.

Then of course there's the food -every meal an 'event' - and the best ice cream in the world. As for culture vultures,   you need plenty of time to see seven Unesco sites, Roman and Greek remains top of the list, such as Syracuse and Agrigento. 



Azores ©Solange Hando

This is an autonomous region of Portugal, nine islands altogether and I visited four so far. Sao Miguel, the longest and the capital, has amazing lakes and the only tea plantation in Europe while Terceira claims a Unesco capital, Angra, and a peninsula topped by an extinct volcano with panoramic views.

My favourite was the 'blue island' of Faial blooming with hydrangea, known far and wide for its scenic viewpoints, nature reserve and harbour covered in sailors' artwork.  There you can sail to Picolo (above), a wild quiet place with windmills, vineyards and lakes and dramatic volcanoes peeping through clouds and mist. 


Mauritius ©Solange Hando


Out in the Indian Ocean, Mauritius has romantic beaches with white sands and blue lagoons sheltered by coral reef. Sunsets are among the best I have seen, night after night, while Port-Louis, the capital, delighted me with its pretty colours and giant lilies in the nearby Botanical Gardens.

I gazed at tea plantations and sugar cane and wandered in the scenic uplands where pink pigeons and flying foxes make their home in the Black River Gorge. The Sacred Lake is an inspiring place but most unusual is the coloured earth of Chamarel, rolling pink, purple and gold as far as you can see. 





    

     




 

Saturday 27 November 2021

UNESCO 75th Anniversary, Top Sites (social media), Rome, Rio, Venice

ROME

1st on UNESCO List

 

Rome Colosseum ©Solange Hando

                   
Among the city's highlights, the Colosseum is truly impressive, especially after dark, beautifully lit up when the crowds have gone. Damaged by earthquakes at various times, it still takes my breath away.
 
Completed in 80AD, this was the largest amphitheatre ever built, holding up to 80,000 spectators. Popular in Roman times for gladiators contests and other dramatic events, it was used more peacefully  for housing and workshops in the Middle Ages.



Vatican City ©Solange Hando

Head of the Roman Catholic Church and residence of the Pope, the Vatican became an independent city state in 1929, the smallest of its kind in Europe.

St Peter's Square (above ) is simply stunning, myriad statues, gleaming white, greeting you around the vast colonnaded area. Beyond the square and traditional Swiss Guards, see the Renaissance basilica -one of the world's largest churches- and the museums, including the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo.


RIO DE JANEIRO
2nd on UNESCO List



Corcovado

Up above the marina, see Corcovado, the city's most iconic peak, topped by a statue of Christ the Redeemer, 38 metres high. Visitors come in their droves for the must-have pictures and fabulous views.

At 706 metres, it is reached via a rack railway climbing through jungle laced in streams and waterfalls. Then you can take a lift to the final section or struggle up 223 steps to enjoy the panorama unfolding along the way.


The Sugar Loaf ©Solange Hando

Great views of the Sugar Loaf from Corcovado, a mere 396 metres high but far fewer crowds, especially if you continue to the very top on the second cable car.

Amazing panorama across the bay, islands and mountains as far as you can see and hiking trails where you can get away from it all. I have visited over 100 countries but for me, the most scenic city I have ever seen is Rio de Janeiro.


VENICE
3rd on UNESCO List



Venice St Mark's Square ©Solange Hando


So impressive from the water then when you reach the square, the vast open space is an amazing contrast to the old lanes winding beyond. Stop for a while to take it all in and enjoy a latte on an café terrace.

Then visit the basilica and the Dodge's Palace with majestic staircases and art work. See the free-standing campanile? Head there as soon as it opens for the views from the top across city, canal and lagoon, are unrivalled.


Rialto Bridge ©Solange Hando

Originally a wooden bridge, it was rebuilt in the 16th century, in Renaissance style, and remains the oldest bridge on the Grand Canal. 

The single stone archway is topped by rows  of arcaded shops leading up to the central Portico. It's a great place to watch the gondolas and festivities and cultural events held on the water.


Now guess what?
Out of 1092 UNESCO sites (cultural and natural), the country with the most is Italy (51 sites)

As for me, my favourites include the Kathmandu Valley and Machu Picchu...




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Friday 1 October 2021

My Favourite Spots in the Himalayas

Brahmaputra in Tibet ©Solange Hando

With its source in the Himalayas Kailash range, this is the young Brahmaputra draped in Buddhist prayer flags for an auspicious journey from Tibet to India and Bangladesh, where it will join the Ganges in the Bay of Bengal. The name means 'son of Brahma', the Hindu god, unusual since most rivers refer to female deities. 



Bhutan Tiger's Lair ©Solange Hando

Close to Paro and a morning climb to over 3000 meters, this is the kingdom's most iconic landmark where, they say, Guru Rinpoche flew on the back of a tigress, to meditate in a cave before spreading Buddhism across the valley. Blue pines, rhododendrons, waterfalls and stunning views, it's a fabulous trek to the top or you can ride a pony to the cafeteria half-way up.



Punakha in Bhutan ©Solange Hando

At just 1250 meters, the former capital feels almost tropical and is the winter home of the monks from Thimphu. At the confluence of two rivers, the fortified monastery (dzong) is an important pilgrimage site, especially during festival time. But Punakha is also a great place to trek in gentle hills and discover Bhutan's pristine nature and traditional villages. Bears in the forest but they tend to keep away.


Ladakh in Northern India ©Solange Hando

In summer you can fly from Delhi to Leh, Ladakh's capital, but the 2-3 day road journey from Manali takes you through spectacular scenery and allows you to acclimatise to high altitude. Then heading west on the edge of disputed Kashmir, you reach this so-called 'moonscape', a rugged barren land close to Lamayuru, one of the oldest and most remote monasteries in Ladakh.



                                                               Ladakh Peaceful  Rivers ©Solange Hando

Equally stunning but in lovely pastel colours, this is the confluence between the Indus and Zanskar rivers, near Ulektopo, not too far from Leh. In winter the frozen Zanskar attracts adventurous trekkers but in the brief summer the scenery is just magic, two rivers for the price of one...


                                                                Bodhnath in Kathmandu ©Solange Hando

My favourite temple in Nepal's capital, it is said to be the world's largest Buddhist stupa which regained its former glory after the 2015 earthquake. Dawn and dusk are special times when Tibetan refugees and Nepali alike walk seven times around the shrine, meeting friends and spinning prayer wheels, sometimes prostrating, as monks chant to the sound of long horns, cymbals and drums.


                                                                     Pokhara in Nepal ©Solange Hando

A brief flight or a road journey west of Kathmandu, this is the lakeside resort of Pokhara, altitude from only 900 metres or so but an ideal base for trekking in the Annapurna or just enjoying the hill top views, snow-capped mountains stretching 140 km, including the iconic Fishtail right in front of you. Browse around the resort, sail to the sacred island and see the sunrise from Sarangkot.


                                                                     Sunset on Everest ©Solange Hando

View from Kalapatar, the 'black rock' at 5644 metres, above Gorak Shep, the original Base Camp.
All dark except Everest, catching the last rays of the sun
Amazing












 

Saturday 7 August 2021

City of Golden Gates, Nancy Capital of Lorraine

Nancy Golden Gates ©Solange Hando

Capital of Lorraine in north-east France, Nancy loves the golden gates rising on all four corners of the main square. Designed in the 18th century by royal craftsmen, the wrought iron gates are clad with gold leaf and enhanced by fountains and statues.



Stanislas on Nancy Main Square ©Solange Hando

Nancy owes much of its fame to Stanislas, the exiled Polish king who was given the Duchy of Lorraine by his son in law, the French king Louis XV. The city's benefactor nurtured the arts, creating a new district, including the square and its surroundings, spending its fortune to express his gratitude while introducing soup kitchens to feed the poor. 



Place Carrière in Nancy ©Solange Hando

Place Stanislas is listed world heritage site by UNESCO, alongside Place Carrière, the old jousting grounds with its own golden gates, accessed via a Triumphal Arch dedicated to the French king.              The quiet place de l'Alliance is also a UNESCO site, not so grand but with plenty of charm. All three sites are right in the town centre, easy walking distance from each other.



                                                          Porte de la Craffe, Old Town ©Solange Hando

Nancy is a vibrant modern city but just beyond the main square the old town, has medieval lanes, stylish Renaissance buildings and cosy restaurants, ethnic and French. The Porte de la Craffe is all that is left from the medieval fortifications, still sporting the double cross of Lorraine.



                                                           Pottery from Lorraine ©Solange Hando 

The old town is also a great place to find traditional crafts, such as pottery, genuine antiques and local produce in an authentic 'boutique lorraine' or displayed on the outdoor market alongside mirabelle plums in season, cold meat or AOC wine from nearby Toul.  The former 'Dukes Palace' is now a museum full of exhibits.



                                                              Art Nouveau ©Solange Hando

If Art Nouveau is your thing, Nancy is a must. It all started around 1901 when local artists, Gallé, Majorelle and Daum broke away from tradition, using local material to create the flowing lines and colours of the natural world. Stained glass, floral patterns, wrought iron gates, balconies and turrets, you find them all over town and you can learn more about it in the Nancy School Museum.



                                                         Canal Marne to the Rhine ©Solange Hando

Like to escape from the city? There's a lovely park next to the main square or head down to the canal (cruise in season) or a little further you will reach the river Meurthe where you can walk along the promenade and follow the cycling trails. Relax under the weeping willows and watch ducks and swans.



                                                      Early  Evening Place Stanislas©Solange Hando